DarjeelingHIMALAYAS

Festival · Gangtok

Losoong and the Kagyed dances in Gangtok

Losoong is the Bhutia harvest festival and Sikkimese new year, called Namsoong by the Lepchas. In Gangtok it is preceded by the Kagyed masked dances at the Tsuklakhang royal chapel, with more cham at Rumtek and Phodong, archery and the burning of effigies.

WhenDecember, at the end of the harvest (Tibetan lunar calendar)
Losoong and the Kagyed dances in Gangtok
Photo: Ashinpt at enwiki · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Losoong marks the end of the farming year, when the harvest is in and households prepare for the new one. It grew out of the same roots as Losar, the Tibetan new year, and in Sikkim it belongs above all to the Bhutia community; Lepcha families keep it as Namsoong. Celebrations begin with offerings of chi, the local fermented millet drink, to the protective deities, and include the burning of an effigy of the demon king, which stands for clearing away the evil of the old year.

For visitors the most public part comes just before, with the Kagyed cham at Tsuklakhang, the royal chapel of the old Chogyals in Gangtok. Monks in masks and brocade dance episodes linked to Guru Padmasambhava, and at the end effigies and offerings are burnt. Masked dances are also held at Rumtek and at Phodong in North Sikkim, so a December trip can take in two monasteries.

Losoong is also a social time: archery contests, family feasts with meat, rice and home brew, and visits between villages. Dates follow the lunar calendar, so they move by a few weeks each year. December is cold but usually clear, which also makes it a good month for Kanchenjunga views. Check current status and dates before you travel.

Tips

  • Ask your hotel or the Sikkim Tourism office in Gangtok for the year's Kagyed date, then plan around it, since the lunar date shifts.
  • Reach Tsuklakhang early; the palace courtyard is small and the best standing room fills well before the dancing starts.
  • Do not use flash or walk across the dance ground, and ask before photographing monks or families at close range.

Most hill festivals follow lunar calendars, so dates move each year. Check current status before you travel.

Questions people ask

Good to know

When is Losoong celebrated in Sikkim?

Losoong falls in December, at the end of the harvest season, on a date set by the Tibetan lunar calendar, so it moves by a few weeks from year to year. The Kagyed masked dances at Tsuklakhang in Gangtok come a few days before. Check the current year's dates with Sikkim Tourism or your hotel before you travel.

What is the difference between Losoong and Losar?

Losoong is the Sikkimese Bhutia harvest festival and new year, held in December; Lepchas call it Namsoong. Losar is the Tibetan new year, held in February or March. Losoong was adapted from Losar traditions, which is why both include cham dances and offerings, but they are separate festivals about two months apart.

Where can we see the masked dances before Losoong?

In Gangtok, the Kagyed cham is held at Tsuklakhang, the royal chapel near the old palace. Masked dances are also performed at Rumtek, about an hour from Gangtok, and at Phodong in North Sikkim. Entry is generally free for spectators, but space is limited, so arrive early and dress warmly.

Is December a good time to visit Gangtok for Losoong?

Yes, if you pack for the cold. Gangtok nights drop to about 4–5 °C, skies are usually clear, and Kanchenjunga shows well in the mornings. Tsomgo Lake may be partly frozen and the Nathu La road can close after snowfall, so keep a spare day. Check current status before you travel.

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