Festival · Pedong
Gaeboo Achyok Day at Damsang fort
Every 20 December, Lepchas from Kalimpong, Darjeeling and Sikkim gather at the ruins of Damsang fort near Pedong to mark the birth anniversary of Gaeboo Achyok, the 17th-century Lepcha chief who fought the Bhutanese for these hills.
Gaeboo Achyok is the most celebrated hero in Lepcha history. In the second half of the 17th century he led a Lepcha principality based at Damsang, above Pedong, and tried to hold the Kalimpong hills against the expanding kingdom of Bhutan, making an alliance with Tibet. The wars ended with his capture and execution, and Bhutan held Kalimpong until the Treaty of Sinchula in 1865.
His fort, Damsang Gadi, is now a ruin of stone walls on a forested ridge a few kilometres from Pedong. The date usually given for it is 1690, though historians disagree on the exact years of his rule. Lepcha lore says spirits carried the large, smooth round stones of its walls up from the Reshi river; that is a story, and a good one.
On 20 December each year, Lepcha families and community groups come to the fort for the anniversary of his birth, with rituals, speeches, songs and traditional dress. It is a community observance first, not a tourist event, but respectful visitors are generally welcome.
Tips
- Stay in Pedong or Sillery Gaon the night before, as the walk or drive up to Damsang starts early.
- Wear good shoes: the last stretch to the ruins is a rough forest path.
- Arrangements are made by community groups each year: check current status before you travel.
Most hill festivals follow lunar calendars, so dates move each year. Check current status before you travel.
Questions people ask
Good to know
Who was Gaeboo Achyok?
Gaeboo Achyok was a Lepcha chieftain who led a principality based at Damsang, near present-day Pedong, in the second half of the 17th century. He resisted Bhutanese expansion into the Kalimpong hills and allied with Tibet, but was eventually captured and executed. Lepchas honour him as their greatest hero and mark his birth anniversary on 20 December.
How do I reach Damsang fort from Pedong?
Damsang fort is a few kilometres above Pedong. Hire a local taxi from Pedong bazaar for about ₹600–1,000 return to the nearest road point, then walk the last stretch on a forest path, 15–30 minutes. You can also walk from Pedong, Sillery Gaon or Icchey Gaon with a local guide, which takes a half day.
Is anything left of Damsang fort?
Only ruins: low walls and scattered dressed stones on a forested hilltop, with views over the Pedong and Rhenock hills. It fell to ruin after the Anglo-Bhutan war of 1864. Go for the story and the setting, not for a standing castle, and do not climb on the walls.
Can tourists attend the 20 December gathering?
Yes, respectful visitors are generally welcome, but remember that it is a community commemoration. Dress warmly and modestly, ask before photographing rituals or elders, and stay out of the way of the organisers. Programme timings are set locally each year, so check current status before you travel.