Dawn over Kanchenjunga from Gumbadara

Tiger Hill is famous for its sunrise, and in October and May it is also famous for its crowds. Tinchuley offers a smaller, quieter version. From the Gumbadara viewpoint above the village, the Kanchenjunga massif stands to the north, 8,586 m at its summit and the third-highest mountain on Earth. The peaks catch the first light pink and gold while the ridges in front are still dark, and below to the east the Teesta valley lies under a layer of mist that slowly burns off as the sun climbs.

Ask your homestay the evening before how long the walk takes from the house, and set out so you arrive 20–30 minutes before sunrise. In November that means leaving around 5 am. Carry a torch, a warm jacket, a hat and a flask of tea, because you will be standing still in the cold. The way up is short, but walk slowly in the dark and watch your footing. If you have children with you, the top is open ground, so keep them close near the edges.

Clear mornings are most likely from October to early December and again in March and April. In the monsoon you may see nothing at all, and in late spring haze often hides the peaks. Give yourself two mornings if you can. When the view fails, the walk still pays: you watch the village wake up, smoke rise from kitchen fires and the first jeeps start down the road. Back at the homestay, breakfast will be waiting, and it tastes better for the cold.

Cost: Free