DarjeelingHIMALAYAS

Food · Pakyong

Sel roti and tea in Pakyong bazaar

Stop in Pakyong's bazaar on the way out of Gangtok for sel roti, aloo dum, puri and sweet milky tea at local prices. It is a cheap, filling start to a day on the road to Rongli, Aritar or Rangpo.

Time30–45 minutes Cost₹50–150 pp Altitude1,400m
Sel roti and tea in Pakyong bazaar
Photo: sarvajanik · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Sel roti is a ring-shaped fried bread made from a batter of ground rice, sugar and milk or water, poured by hand into hot oil. It is eaten across the Nepali-speaking hills of Sikkim and Darjeeling, especially at festivals such as Dashain and Tihar, but also every day in small tea shops. In Pakyong's bazaar it usually comes with aloo dum, a spiced potato curry, and a glass of sweet milky tea.

The town's tea shops and eateries open early for school-goers, office workers and drivers heading out on the long roads south and east. Puri and sabzi, boiled eggs, momos and chowmein appear on most menus by mid-morning. Prices are local: about ₹40–80 for tea and sel roti, a little more for a full plate. It is one of the cheapest good breakfasts in East Sikkim.

If you are travelling by shared jeep, ask the driver to stop in Pakyong; most will, as they stop for themselves. Eat at busy places where the oil is fresh, and carry a few sel roti for the road, since they keep well for a day. If you see local pickles or dalle chilli sauce for sale, a small jar travels well too.

Cost: ₹50–150 pp

Questions people ask

Good to know

What is sel roti?

Sel roti is a ring-shaped fried bread made from a rice-flour batter sweetened with sugar, eaten across the Nepali-speaking Himalaya. It is a festival food, especially at Dashain and Tihar, but tea shops in Pakyong and elsewhere in Sikkim sell it daily, often with aloo dum.

Is Pakyong a good breakfast stop on the way to Rongli?

Yes. Pakyong is about an hour out of Gangtok on the road to Rongli, Aritar and the Silk Route, and its bazaar has tea shops serving sel roti, puri, momos and tea from early morning. Shared jeeps often stop here anyway.

How much does breakfast cost in Pakyong?

Tea and sel roti cost about ₹40–80, and a fuller plate of puri, aloo dum or momos about ₹80–150. Prices are local, lower than in central Gangtok. Carry cash in small notes, though many shops take UPI.

Plan with a local

Tell us your dates. We send the real cost

Where you want to go, how many of you, and roughly what you want to spend a day. A planner who lives in these hills replies within one working day with a route and every rupee written down.

  • No payment to start
  • Shared jeep or private car, your choice
  • Homestays we have slept in
  • Change anything, any time before you book

Get a priced route

Within one working day. No payment to start.

We reply by email or WhatsApp. See our privacy policy.

Get my honest quote