DarjeelingHIMALAYAS
The Silk Route by homestay: Zuluk and Gnathang

Gangtok & East Sikkim · Value trip

The Silk Route by homestay: Zuluk and Gnathang

A week on the old Kalimpong–Lhasa mule road above Rongli, climbing slowly: a forest night at Padamchen, two nights at Zuluk for the zigzag road and Thambi View Point, a high night at Gnathang near Kupup, and a soft landing at Aritar's lake. One shared SUV, family homestays, about ₹24,500 per person.

Fare₹24,500 Nights6 Per day₹3,500 Highest4,000m PaceBalanced

Photo: Ashinpt at enwiki · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Until the 1960s mule trains carried wool, salt and borax down from Lhasa over Jelep La and the ridges of East Sikkim to the market in Kalimpong, and took cloth, sugar and kerosene back. Zuluk, at about 2,900 m, was one of their night halts. The British used the same line in 1903–04, when Francis Younghusband's expedition crossed Jelep La into Tibet. After the 1962 war the trade stopped, the army moved in, and the old track became a military road with dozens of hairpins, now known to travellers as the Silk Route.

We climb it the way a mule driver would have, one stage at a time. You sleep at Padamchen, then two nights at Zuluk, then one at Gnathang close to 4,000 m, which gives your body time to adjust before the high ground at Kupup. The return comes down to Aritar, a lake village at about 1,400 m, so your last night is warm. The Silk Route above Rongli is generally open to Indian nationals only, on a permit, so check current status before you travel.

Why this trip

  • The zigzag road below Thambi View Point at first light
  • Kanchenjunga from Lungthung on a clear dawn
  • Kupup's Elephant Lake and the view towards Jelep La
  • A high-valley night at Gnathang, among yak pastures
  • A last quiet evening by Lampokhari Lake at Aritar

Day by day

NJP railway station or Bagdogra airport to NJP railway station or Bagdogra airport · Reserved car

Day01

NJP to Gangtok and the permit papers

Gangtok≈ 114 km · 4–5 h by shared jeepOn your own

Take a shared jeep seat from Siliguri to Gangtok for ₹350–500. NH10 along the Teesta has closed at times since the October 2023 flood, with jeeps going round via Kalimpong, so check current status before you travel. In Gangtok meet the operator whose SUV you will use for the next six days and hand over your papers for the Silk Route permit: usually photo ID, several photocopies and passport photos per person. The permit is issued for the Rongli subdivision and checked at posts along the road. Eat well tonight; homestay food from here on is simple.

Spend today: ₹350–500 jeep seat + ₹300 dinner

Day02

Through Rongli to Padamchen

Padamchen≈ 85 km · 3.5–4 h by reserved SUVBreakfast, dinner

The SUV drops from Gangtok to Ranipool, crosses to Rorathang on the Rangpo river and climbs to Rongli, the bazaar town where the permit is checked and where you buy anything you have forgotten, including cash; do not count on an ATM above it. Past Lingtam the road enters the forest of the upper Rangpo valley and reaches Padamchen, a small army and village settlement among moss, fern and rhododendron. Sleep here to break the climb. Walk the road at dusk, listen for birds, and eat dinner by the stove with your hosts.

Spend today: ₹1,800 homestay with meals + ₹150 lunch at Rongli

Day03

Padamchen to Zuluk

Zuluk≈ 15 km · 1 h by reserved SUVBreakfast, dinner

A deliberately short day. The road climbs in tight bends to Zuluk at about 2,900 m, a line of houses and homestays along the road with an army camp above. Settle in, then walk slowly on the road and the paths above the village; at this height your breath runs short on stairs, and an easy afternoon now pays off at Kupup in two days. Zuluk has a small gumpa and village shops selling tea, noodles and chhurpi. Tell your host you want a 4 am start tomorrow for Thambi View Point and Lungthung, and go to bed early.

Spend today: ₹1,800 homestay with meals + ₹150 lunch

Day04

Thambi View Point and Lungthung dawn

Zuluk≈ 30 km round trip by reserved SUVBreakfast, dinner

Leave Zuluk around 4.30 am to reach Thambi View Point before sunrise. Below you the Silk Route coils down the hillside in loop after loop, and on clear mornings from October to May the sun lights Kanchenjunga beyond Lungthung, a little higher up. Take tea at a roadside stall, then drive back for breakfast. The rest of the day is free: rest, walk the village, or go back up in the afternoon light, when the hairpins throw long shadows. Snow, fog or army movement can stop the road, so be ready to change the plan.

Spend today: ₹1,800 homestay with meals + ₹100 tea + ₹150 lunch

Day05

Kupup and up to Gnathang

Gnathang≈ 35 km · 2–3 h by reserved SUV with stopsBreakfast, dinner

Drive up past Lungthung and Gnathang to Kupup, close to 4,000 m, where Elephant Lake, named for its shape, lies below the road and the ridge towards Jelep La, the old trade pass, rises to the east. Stop at the Old Baba Mandir, the first shrine to Sepoy Harbhajan Singh, on the way. Walk very slowly at this height and keep your visit short. In the afternoon drop back to Gnathang, a broad high valley of yak pastures and a few homestays. Nights are bitterly cold for much of the year, so ask for extra quilts.

Spend today: ₹1,800 homestay with meals + ₹200 boot or coat hire + ₹150 lunch

Day06

Down the Silk Route to Aritar

Aritar≈ 75 km · 4.5–5 h by reserved SUVBreakfast, dinner

Leave after breakfast and retrace the road down through Zuluk, Padamchen and Rongli, losing about 2,500 m in a morning, which is the best cure for altitude. From Rongli the SUV turns west to Rhenock and climbs to Aritar, about 1,400 m. In the late afternoon walk to Lampokhari Lake, one of the oldest natural lakes in Sikkim, and row across it if the boatmen are still out. After nights in the cold, a warm room and a long dinner at your homestay feel like luxury. Ask about the road to Siliguri for tomorrow.

Spend today: ₹1,800 homestay with meals + ₹200 boating + ₹150 lunch

Day07

Aritar to NJP or Bagdogra

≈ 120 km · 4–5 h by reserved SUVBreakfast

The SUV takes you down through Rhenock and Rorathang to Rangpo and along the Teesta on NH10 to Siliguri. If NH10 is closed after landslides, as it has often been since the October 2023 flood, the driver takes the old road through Pedong and Kalimpong instead, which is about as long and passes the same mule route you have just followed. Allow five hours to NJP or Bagdogra and keep your train or flight for the afternoon. Check current status before you travel, and settle the driver's tip before you unload.

Spend today: ₹200 lunch on the road

Included

  • Shared jeep seat NJP–Gangtok
  • Reserved SUV and driver for 6 days, shared by four
  • Gangtok budget hotel for 1 night, twin share
  • Homestays at Padamchen, Zuluk, Gnathang and Aritar with dinner and breakfast
  • Silk Route permit arranged through the operator

Not included

  • Train or flight to NJP or Bagdogra
  • Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La
  • Lunches beyond simple roadside meals
  • Driver's night halt charges if not agreed in the quote
  • Personal warm clothing

Three ways to spend less

  • Fill the SUV with four or five people; the daily rate of about ₹5,000–7,000 stays the same however many seats you use.
  • Book Silk Route homestays directly by phone through your Zuluk host, who can usually line up Padamchen and Gnathang too, and pay in cash on arrival.
  • Bring your own down jacket, gloves and hat instead of hiring them at Kupup each day.

Good to know

  • The Silk Route above Rongli is generally open to Indian nationals only, on a permit; check current status before you travel.
  • Carry at least four photocopies of photo ID and four passport photos per person for checkpoints.
  • There is no ATM you can rely on above Rongli; bring cash for the whole circuit.
  • Mobile network is patchy at Zuluk and weak or absent at Gnathang and Kupup.
  • Snow can close the road above Zuluk from December to March, and landslides are common from June to September.

The route

Where the trip goes

Map of Gangtok, Padamchen, Zuluk, Gnathang, AritarIndiaChinaBhutanGangtok1GangtokPadamchen2PadamchenZuluk3ZulukGnathang4GnathangAritar5Aritar10 kmN
  1. 1Gangtok 1 night
  2. 2Padamchen 1 night
  3. 3Zuluk 2 nights
  4. 4Gnathang 1 night
  5. 5Aritar 1 night
Drawn by Darjeeling Himalayas from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Questions people ask

Questions about this trip

Can foreigners travel the Silk Route to Zuluk?

Generally no. The Silk Route above Rongli, including Zuluk, Gnathang and Kupup, has been open to Indian nationals only, on a permit, because it runs close to the China border. Rules have been discussed and changed in the past, so check current status before you travel. Foreign travellers can visit Aritar and Rongli on the standard Sikkim permit.

How do I get the Silk Route permit?

Through a registered operator, your driver or your Zuluk homestay, who apply for the Rongli subdivision permit with your photo ID, photocopies and passport photos, usually a day or two ahead. You need confirmed homestay bookings. The permit lists your vehicle and dates and is checked at army and police posts on the road. Check current status before you travel.

Why sleep at Padamchen before Zuluk?

To climb slowly. Going from Gangtok at 1,650 m to Zuluk at about 2,900 m and then to Kupup near 4,000 m within two days gives many people headaches and bad nights. A night at Padamchen, lower down, and two at Zuluk let your body adjust, so the high day at Kupup is a pleasure rather than a struggle.

What are Silk Route homestays like?

Simple and warm in spirit, cold in fact. Expect a plain room in a family house with thick quilts, a shared or attached bathroom and hot water by the bucket. Dinner and breakfast are included, usually rice, dal, a vegetable, eggs or chicken, and noodles in the morning, for about ₹1,200–2,000 per person.

When is the best time for the Silk Route?

October and November give the clearest views of Kanchenjunga from Thambi View Point and Lungthung. April and May bring rhododendrons and milder nights. December to March brings snow, which looks wonderful but can close the road above Zuluk for days. June to September is the monsoon, with fog, leeches and landslides: we would not go then.

Is altitude a problem at Gnathang and Kupup?

It can be. Kupup is close to 4,000 m and Gnathang only a little lower, and sleeping at Gnathang is the hardest night of this trip. Walk slowly, drink plenty of water, skip alcohol and eat well. Headache that does not ease, vomiting or confusion means you should go down at once. People with heart or lung problems should ask a doctor first.

Can I combine the Silk Route with Tsomgo and Nathu La?

Some tours run from Kupup down past Baba Mandir to Tsomgo and Gangtok, but that crossing depends on the permits issued and army rules, and is not always allowed. It is simpler to do Tsomgo and Nathu La from Gangtok as a separate day before or after. Ask your operator and check current status before you travel.

How much does a Silk Route trip cost?

This six-night trip costs about ₹24,500 per person, four sharing the SUV, indicative for 2025–26. The SUV is the biggest cost at about ₹5,000–7,000 a day for the vehicle. Homestays cost ₹1,200–2,000 per person with dinner and breakfast. Two people alone in the car pay roughly ₹8,000 more each.

What should I pack for Zuluk and Gnathang?

A down jacket, thermal layers, a warm hat, gloves and woollen socks, even in May; nights are below freezing for much of the year. Add sunglasses, sunscreen, lip balm, a headtorch, basic medicines including something for headaches, cash for the whole trip, and enough ID copies and photos for every checkpoint.

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