Festival · Kurseong
Dashain and Tihar in Kurseong
The two biggest festivals of the Nepali-speaking hills. Dashain brings red tika and blessings from elders; Tihar, about three weeks later, brings oil lamps, garlands for crows, dogs and cows, rangoli and the sel roti of every kitchen.
Dashain is the longest and most important festival for Nepali-speaking Hindus, celebrated over about two weeks at the same time as Durga Puja in Bengal. Its high point is the day of tika, when elders place a mixture of red vermilion, yoghurt and rice on the foreheads of younger relatives and give blessings and a little money. Families travel home, new clothes come out, and in villages tall bamboo swings, called ping, are sometimes put up.
Tihar follows about three weeks later, at the same time as Diwali. Over five days, crows, dogs and cows are honoured in turn with garlands and tika, houses are lit with oil lamps and fairy lights, and groups of young people go from house to house singing bhailo and deusi songs for small gifts. Kitchens fry sel roti, a ring-shaped rice bread, in large batches.
In Kurseong you see it in the bazaar, which fills with marigold garlands and new clothes, and in the lights on the hillsides at night.
Tips
- Book transport early; Dashain and Puja are the busiest travel period of the year.
- Accept sel roti if a host offers it, and ask how it is made.
- Some shops and offices close on the main days, so carry cash and plan meals.
Most hill festivals follow lunar calendars, so dates move each year. Check current status before you travel.
Questions people ask
Good to know
When are Dashain and Tihar celebrated?
Dashain falls in September or October and lasts about two weeks, at the same time as Durga Puja. Tihar comes about three weeks later, in October or November, at the same time as Diwali. Exact dates follow the lunar calendar and change each year; check current status before you travel.
What is Dashain tika?
On the main day of Dashain, elders place a paste of red vermilion, yoghurt and rice on the foreheads of younger family members, often with barley shoots called jamara, and give blessings. It is the heart of the festival, and families gather for it.
What is sel roti?
Sel roti is a ring-shaped bread made from a rice-flour batter, sweetened and deep-fried. It is made in large batches for Tihar and Dashain and shared with neighbours and visitors. It is slightly crisp outside and soft inside, and is often eaten with tea or potato curry.
Is it a good time to visit Kurseong during Dashain and Tihar?
Yes for atmosphere: lights, marigolds, songs and festive food. But it is also the busiest travel time, coinciding with Durga Puja and Diwali holidays from the plains. Book rooms and jeeps early and expect higher prices.