Festival · Phodong
Losoong masked dance at Phodong
Losoong is the Sikkimese harvest new year, celebrated by Bhutias and, as Namsoong, by Lepchas. Before it, Phodong and Rumtek monasteries hold masked chaam dances that tell stories of Guru Padmasambhava and end with the burning of an effigy of evil.
Losoong, also called Sonam Losoong, marks the end of the harvest. It falls on the first day of the eleventh month of the Tibetan calendar, usually in December, and it is the time when farmers celebrate the year's crops with family and friends. Lepchas celebrate the same season as Namsoong, their new year. The festival borrows much of its ritual from Losar, the Tibetan New Year.
In the days before Losoong, masked dances, or chaam, are held at Phodong Monastery, as well as at Rumtek. Monks in brocade costumes and painted masks perform the dances, which depict episodes from the life of Guru Padmasambhava, called Guru Ugyen in Sikkim, and the victory of good over evil. The dance ends with an effigy of a demon king being burned.
Phodong is small, so the crowd is mostly local families in their best clothes, with monks, children, food stalls and a lot of tea. Arrive early for a good place in the courtyard. Dates change every year with the lunar calendar; confirm with the monastery or Sikkim Tourism, and check current status before you travel.
Tips
- Arrive by 8–9 am for a place in the courtyard; the best spots fill early.
- Dress warmly; December mornings in Phodong are cold, and you will stand for hours.
- Do not walk across the dance area or use flash; ask monks before close-up photos.
Most hill festivals follow lunar calendars, so dates move each year. Check current status before you travel.
Questions people ask
Good to know
When is the Losoong chaam at Phodong?
Usually in December, in the days before Losoong, which falls on the first day of the eleventh Tibetan month. The exact dates change every year. Confirm with Phodong Monastery or Sikkim Tourism a few weeks before, and check current status before you travel.
What is Losoong?
Losoong is the Sikkimese harvest new year, celebrated by Bhutias in December; Lepchas celebrate it as Namsoong. Families gather, special food and drink are prepared, and monasteries such as Phodong and Rumtek hold masked dances before it. It draws on the traditions of the Tibetan New Year, Losar.
Can tourists watch the Phodong masked dance?
Yes. Visitors are welcome to watch from the courtyard edges. Dress modestly, stay off the dance ground, keep voices low and do not use flash. Photography rules may vary during rituals; follow monks' instructions.
How do I get to Phodong for the chaam?
Take an early shared jeep from Gangtok's Vajra stand toward Phodong or Mangan, about ₹120–200 and 1.5 hours, or hire a taxi for about ₹2,500–3,500 for the day. Jeeps fill fast on festival days, so go to the stand by 7 am.