North Sikkim: Lachung & Lachen · monastery town

Phodong

Two monasteries above Sikkim's third capital

Altitude1,500m Nights0–1 BestOct – May

Photo: dhillan chandramowli · CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikimedia Commons

In brief

Phodong is a small town 38 km north of Gangtok on the North Sikkim road, known for Phodong Monastery, Labrang Monastery 2 km above it, and Tumlong, the Chogyals' capital from 1793 to 1894. The pre-Losoong masked dance is held here in December. No permit for Indians; shared jeeps from Gangtok.

The local story

The monastery, the old capital and the treaty

The Kagyu teacher known as the 9th Karmapa, invited to Sikkim by its king, founded three monasteries: Rumtek, Ralang and Phodong. The present Phodong Monastery dates from the early 18th century, on the site of an older one, and it was later rebuilt by Sidkeong Tulku Namgyal, the reforming prince recognised as the reincarnation of his uncle, a former abbot here. It is home to a large community of monks and holds old murals. Two kilometres above it, Labrang Monastery was built between 1826 and 1843 by Gyalshe Rigzing Chempa, son of Chogyal Tsugphud Namgyal, in memory of Lhatsun Chenpo; unlike many Sikkim gompas, it keeps its original structure.

Below the monasteries lies Tumlong. After raids from Nepal made the western capital at Rabdentse unsafe, Chogyal Tsugphud Namgyal moved the court here in 1793. In March 1861 the Treaty of Tumlong, signed by Sir Ashley Eden for the British and Sidkeong Namgyal for Sikkim, made Sikkim a British protectorate in all but name. In 1894 Chogyal Thutob Namgyal moved the capital to Gangtok, and Tumlong went back to being a farming village, many of whose men still become monks at the gompa above.

Phodong Monastery is one of three monasteries in Sikkim founded under the 9th Karmapa; the others are Rumtek and Ralang.

Labrang Monastery, 2 km above Phodong at about 2,130 m, took 17 years to build, from 1826 to 1843.

The Treaty of Tumlong of March 1861 was signed for the British by Sir Ashley Eden, at Sikkim's capital below Phodong.

About Phodong

Phodong is a roadside town on a ridge above the North Sikkim road: a few shops, a primary health centre, a bank branch and terraced farms. The reason to stop is the cluster of history around it: Phodong Monastery just above the road, Labrang Monastery higher up, and the old capital at Tumlong below, with the Seven Sisters waterfall on the highway nearby.

North Sikkim tours rush past at 11 am. Independent travellers can do better: a shared jeep from Gangtok, a morning at the two monasteries, lunch in town, and either a jeep back or onward to Mangan and Singhik. In December, the masked dances before Losoong, the Sikkimese harvest new year, are held at Phodong. No permit is needed for Indians. Check current status before you travel in the monsoon.

What to see and do

Phodong Monastery

A Kagyu monastery of the early 18th century, rebuilt by Sidkeong Tulku Namgyal, with old murals and a large monk community. Visit in the morning for prayers; it is a few minutes above the road.

Labrang Monastery

Two kilometres uphill, Labrang was built from 1826 to 1843 and keeps its original structure, with a bronze of Guru Padmasambhava in wrathful form. Walk up for the views.

Tumlong, the old capital

Sikkim's capital from 1793 to 1894, where the Treaty of Tumlong was signed in 1861. Little remains of the palace, but the village and its setting make the history real.

Losoong masked dance

In December, masked chaam dances before Losoong, the Sikkimese harvest new year, are held at Phodong Monastery. Dates follow the Tibetan calendar; confirm before you go.

Seven Sisters waterfall

A tall, multi-step waterfall beside the North Sikkim road near Tumlong, at its fullest from July to October. A five-minute stop with a tea stall.

How to get there

Shared jeep: Shared jeeps for Phodong and Mangan leave Gangtok's Vajra stand from early morning when full. A seat to Phodong costs about ₹120–200 and takes about 1.5 hours. Return jeeps pass through toward Gangtok until mid-afternoon.
Reserved taxi: A taxi from Gangtok for a day covering Kabi Lungchok, Phensang, Seven Sisters falls, Phodong and Labrang costs about ₹2,500–3,500. Agree waiting time and stops before setting off.
North Sikkim tour: Lachung and Lachen tours pass Phodong about 1.5 hours after leaving Gangtok. Ask your agent in Gangtok for a 20–30 minute stop at the monastery.

Where to stay

Phodong has a few small guesthouses and village homestays, simple and cheap at roughly ₹1,000–2,000 a room. Ask in the bazaar or through a Gangtok contact, and check what is operating. Staying the night makes sense for the December chaam or if you want to see both monasteries at prayer time. Otherwise, visit as a day trip from Gangtok or stay further north at Singhik or Mangan, about 1–1.5 hours on.

Local tips

Visit Phodong Monastery in the morning, when prayers are more likely and the light is good.
Take a local taxi up to Labrang and walk the 2 km back down.
Confirm the December chaam dates with the monastery or Sikkim Tourism; they follow the Tibetan calendar.
Combine Phodong with Kabi Lungchok and Phensang for a full day from Gangtok.
Dress modestly and ask before photographing inside the prayer halls.

02,7005,400

Altitude1,500 m

Hill-station height: cool evenings, a sweater most of the year.

What it costs here

Shared jeep seat from Gangtok (Vajra stand)₹120–200

Reserved taxi Gangtok–Phodong day trip₹2,500–3,500 a car

Monastery entryFree · donation welcome

Guesthouse or homestay room₹1,000–2,000 (indicative)

Momos, thukpa or rice meal₹100–200

Local taxi to Labrang and back₹300–500

Indicative, 2025–26. Check current status before you travel.

Best months: Oct – May · Dec for the chaam
Nights we suggest: 0–1
From Gangtok: ≈ 38 km · 1.5 h
Altitude: ≈ 1,500 m (Labrang ≈ 2,130 m)
Known for: Phodong and Labrang monasteries, Tumlong, Losoong chaam
Network: Jio, Airtel and BSNL usually work

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

BestGoodAvoid or closed

Things to do

Four things to do in Phodong

Monasteries · 1.5 hoursMorning prayers at Phodong MonasteryPhodong · Free · donation welcome

Monasteries · 2–3 hoursUp to Labrang, Sikkim's unrebuilt gompaPhodong · Free · taxi up ₹300–500

Culture and history · 1.5 hoursTumlong, capital of Sikkim for a centuryPhodong · Free

Viewpoints · 20 minutesSeven Sisters waterfall on the highwayPhodong · Free · tea ₹20–40

On the map

Phodong and its neighbours

Drawn by Darjeeling Himalayas from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Trips that stop here

Go to Phodong on a ticket

Comfort North Sikkim6 nights · Reserved car Dzongu and Lachung, Lepcha valley to the snow Phodong · Dzongu · Lachung · Mangan ₹37,000per person
about ₹5,300 a day

Comfort North Sikkim8 nights · Reserved car North Sikkim end to end, slowly, in 8 nights Phodong · Singhik · Lachen · Lachung ₹48,000per person
about ₹5,350 a day

Shoestring North Sikkim2 nights · Shared jeeps Kabi, Phodong and Singhik: Sikkim's old story Phodong · Singhik ₹5,500per person
about ₹1,850 a day

Shoestring North Sikkim5 nights · Shared jeeps Teesta valley by shared jeep: Phodong to Dzongu Phodong · Singhik · Dzongu · Mangan ₹12,000per person
about ₹2,000 a day

Close by

Nearby places

village1,500 m Kabi Lungchok Where a Lepcha seer and a Tibetan prince swore blood brotherhood

market town956 m Mangan District town of North Sikkim and its large cardamom

viewpoint1,560 m Singhik Kanchenjunga and Siniolchu across the Teesta gorge

Festivals

Losoong masked dance at Phodong

Ways to travel

Monasteries Festivals Long weekends Solo and backpacking

Questions people ask

Questions about Phodong

How far is Phodong from Gangtok?

Phodong is about 38 km north of Gangtok on the North Sikkim road, roughly 1.5 hours by shared jeep or taxi. Some sources give a shorter figure for the monastery. Shared jeeps from the Vajra stand cost about ₹120–200 a seat.

Is Phodong Monastery worth visiting?

Yes, especially with Labrang Monastery 2 km above it. Phodong is an early 18th-century Kagyu monastery with old murals and a large monk community, and Labrang keeps its original 19th-century structure. Together with Tumlong below, they tell the story of Sikkim's royal century there.

Do I need a permit for Phodong?

Indian nationals do not need a permit to visit Phodong. Foreign nationals need the Protected Area Permit for North Sikkim. Phodong is often visited as a day trip from Gangtok or a stop on the way north. Check current status before you travel.

When is the Phodong masked dance?

Phodong Monastery holds masked chaam dances before Losoong, the Sikkimese harvest new year, usually in December. Dates follow the Tibetan lunar calendar and change each year. Confirm with the monastery or Sikkim Tourism a few weeks before you travel.

Can I stay overnight in Phodong?

Yes, in a few small guesthouses and homestays, simple and cheap at about ₹1,000–2,000 a room. It is worth it for the December chaam or a quiet night near the monasteries. Otherwise, most people visit on a day trip from Gangtok or continue to Singhik or Mangan.

What is the difference between Phodong and Labrang monasteries?

Phodong is a Karma Kagyu monastery from the early 18th century, rebuilt in the early 20th; Labrang, 2 km uphill, is a Nyingma monastery built from 1826 to 1843 that keeps its original structure. They are close enough to visit in one morning.

Can I combine Phodong with Kabi Lungchok?

Yes. Kabi Lungchok is about 17 km from Gangtok and Phodong about 38 km, on the same road. A taxi day trip covering Kabi, Phensang, Seven Sisters falls, Phodong and Labrang costs about ₹2,500–3,500 from Gangtok.

What is Tumlong famous for?

Tumlong, just below Phodong, was the capital of Sikkim from 1793 to 1894, and the Treaty of Tumlong with the British was signed there in 1861. Little of the old palace remains, but the village and the monasteries above keep the connection alive.

Is Phodong good for a monsoon day trip?

It can be, as it is only 1.5 hours from Gangtok and below the worst landslide zones further north. The waterfalls are full and the hills green. Still, roads can be blocked after heavy rain; go early and check current status before you travel.