DarjeelingHIMALAYAS

Monasteries · Phodong

Morning prayers at Phodong Monastery

Phodong is a Kagyu monastery of the early 18th century, rebuilt by Sidkeong Tulku Namgyal, with old murals and a large monk community. Come in the morning, sit quietly at the back of the hall if invited, and look at the paintings.

Time1.5 hours CostFree · donation welcome Altitude1,500m
Morning prayers at Phodong Monastery
Photo: dhillan chandramowli · CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikimedia Commons

Phodong Monastery belongs to the Karma Kagyu school, the same school as Rumtek. Its origins go back to the 9th Karmapa, who founded Rumtek, Ralang and Phodong at the invitation of Sikkim's king. The present monastery was built in the early 18th century on the site of an older one, and was later reconstructed by Sidkeong Tulku Namgyal, a prince-lama who was recognised as the reincarnation of his uncle, a former abbot.

Inside, the prayer hall holds murals that are among the older surviving paintings in North Sikkim, along with statues and a large collection of scriptures. Several hundred monks have been associated with the monastery, and in the morning you may hear chanting, drums and horns.

Arrive by 8–9 am. Remove shoes, walk clockwise round the hall and prayer wheels, and ask before photographing inside; flash is never acceptable on old murals. If a monk invites you to sit, keep to the back and stay quiet until the session ends. A donation of ₹50–100 is welcome.

Cost: Free · donation welcome

Questions people ask

Good to know

How old is Phodong Monastery?

The present Phodong Monastery was built in the early 18th century, replacing an older monastery on the site. It was later reconstructed by Sidkeong Tulku Namgyal. Its origins are linked to the 9th Karmapa, who founded Rumtek, Ralang and Phodong.

Which school does Phodong Monastery follow?

Phodong follows the Karma Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism, the same as Rumtek. Labrang Monastery, 2 km uphill, is Nyingma. Seeing both in one visit shows two of the main schools practised in Sikkim side by side.

What time does Phodong Monastery open?

There are no fixed public hours, but visitors are usually welcome from early morning to late afternoon. Mornings, around 7–10 am, give the best chance of hearing prayers. On festival days some areas may be closed to visitors.

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