Why Gangtok's monasteries matter
Buddhism came to Sikkim long before Gangtok existed. The kings of Sikkim, the Chogyals of the Namgyal dynasty, were consecrated at Yuksom in 1642 by three Tibetan lamas, and the Nyingma school, the oldest in Tibetan Buddhism, became the faith of the court. When the capital moved to Gangtok in 1894, monasteries and a royal chapel followed it to the ridge. After 1959, lamas fleeing Tibet brought other lineages, above all the Karma Kagyu of the 16th Karmapa, who rebuilt Rumtek across the valley.
The result is that within 25 km of MG Marg you can see the old Nyingma monasteries of the kingdom, a great Kagyu seat built in exile, a modern Zurmang Kagyu monastery and one of the world's leading institutes of Tibetan studies. You do not need to be Buddhist, or to know much, to enjoy them. You need a morning, comfortable shoes that slip off easily, and a little patience for the quiet.
The monasteries at a glance
Distances are from central Gangtok. Entry is free at most monasteries, with donations welcome; Rumtek and the Tibetology museum charge small fees, which change.
| Place | School | Dates | From Gangtok | Best time |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Enchey Monastery | Nyingma | Site 1840s; building 1909 | ≈ 3 km | Early morning prayers |
| Do-drul Chorten | Nyingma | Built 1945–46 | ≈ 2 km, below town | Morning or late afternoon |
| Namgyal Institute of Tibetology | Museum and library | Opened 1958 | Next to Do-drul Chorten | Weekday mornings |
| Tsuklakhang | Royal chapel | Palace era | Palace ridge | Festival days |
| Rumtek, Dharma Chakra Centre | Karma Kagyu | Old 18th c.; new 1966 | ≈ 24 km | Morning prayers |
| Lingdum (Ranka) | Zurmang Kagyu | Completed 1999 | ≈ 20 km | Late morning |
Enchey: the hilltop monastery
Enchey sits near the upper end of Gangtok's ridge among tall conifers, about 3 km from MG Marg. A small gompa was first built on the site in the 1840s. The local story is that the ground had already been blessed by the tantric master Lama Drupthob Karpo, said to have flown here from Maenam Hill in South Sikkim; that is folklore, and it is told with affection. The present building dates from 1909. Its name is usually explained as 'solitary monastery'.
Enchey follows the Nyingma tradition. Go early, around 6–7 am, when the monks' chanting, drums and horns fill the hall and the town below is still waking. Its annual cham, the masked dances, are held in winter, usually in December or January by the lunar calendar, and draw large local crowds; ask for the year's dates. Combine Enchey with Ganesh Tok and the Tashi View Point nearby, and you have a fine first morning in Gangtok.
A local planner turns it into a route for your dates.
Do-drul Chorten and the Tibetology museum
Do-drul Chorten, the great white stupa below the town, was built in 1945–46 by Trulshik Rinpoche of the Nyingma order. The local story is that the site was thought haunted, and the stupa was raised to subdue negative forces. It is ringed by 108 prayer wheels; walk round clockwise, turning each one, as local people do every morning and evening. Beside it are a prayer hall with large images of Guru Rinpoche, who brought Buddhism to the Himalaya, and a small monastic school.
A few minutes' walk away is the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology. The 14th Dalai Lama laid its foundation stone on 10 February 1957, and Jawaharlal Nehru inaugurated it on 1 October 1958. Its museum holds thangkas, statues, ritual objects and rare manuscripts, and its library is one of the most important collections of Tibetan texts outside Tibet. Allow an hour. It is usually closed on Sundays and public holidays; check current status before you travel.
Rumtek, seat of the Karmapa in exile
Rumtek, 24 km from Gangtok across the Ranipool valley, is the largest monastery in Sikkim. The first monastery here was built in the mid-18th century under Changchub Dorje, the 12th Karmapa, and lay in ruins by the 20th century. In 1959 the 16th Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpe Dorje, fled Tibet with monks and relics from Tsurphu, chose the old site, and with help from the Sikkim royal family built the Dharma Chakra Centre. He inaugurated it on Losar in 1966. He died in 1981, and a golden stupa holds his relics.
Since the 1990s Rumtek has been at the centre of the dispute over the 17th Karmapa, and neither rival candidate lives here. The visible result is armed security at the gate, where you show photo ID. Inside, young monks study at the Karma Shri Nalanda Institute and prayers continue in the great hall, with its murals and large image of the Buddha. Come in the morning, and walk ten minutes downhill to the old Rumtek monastery, which is quieter and often empty. Losar, in February or March, brings dances and crowds.
Allow at least an hour and a half at Rumtek itself: time for the main hall, the golden stupa, the institute courtyard and the walk to the old monastery. A small canteen near the gate serves tea and noodles.
Lingdum at Ranka, and the royal chapel
Lingdum, also called Ranka or the Pal Zurmang Kagyud Monastery, sits in forest about 20 km from Gangtok, and many taxis combine it with Rumtek. It was completed in 1999 and follows the Zurmang Kagyu tradition. The buildings are new, bright and large, with a wide courtyard and a big prayer hall, and young monks are often at their lessons. It is popular with photographers for its clean lines and colours. Ask before photographing inside the halls.
Tsuklakhang, the royal chapel by the old palace on Gangtok's ridge, was the centre of court ritual under the Chogyals. It is usually closed to casual visitors but opens for festivals, above all Pang Lhabsol in August or September, when masked dancers honour Kanchenjunga as Sikkim's guardian deity, and the Kagyed cham in December. If your dates match, it is the most moving thing to see in Gangtok.
Visiting well
A half-day reserved taxi from Gangtok to Rumtek and Lingdum costs about ₹1,500–2,500. Enchey, Do-drul Chorten and the Tibetology museum can be done on a city tour, by taxi hops of ₹100–300, or partly on foot. Monasteries open from early morning to late afternoon, with prayers at dawn and often again in the afternoon.
Etiquette is simple and matters. Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees. Remove shoes and hats before entering prayer halls. Walk clockwise around stupas, prayer wheels and halls. Do not point your feet at altars or monks, do not touch statues or ritual objects, and ask before taking photographs, which some halls forbid. Keep voices low and phones silent. A small donation in the box is welcome.
A few things you will see everywhere are worth understanding. Prayer wheels hold rolled mantras, usually om mani padme hum, and each clockwise turn is said to send the prayer out as many times as it is written inside. Prayer flags in five colours, blue, white, red, green and yellow, carry prayers on the wind; white flags on tall poles are often raised for the dead. Butter lamps are lit as offerings, and you may be able to offer one for a small donation. Walking round a sacred place clockwise, called kora, is a prayer in itself, and local people do it daily at Do-drul Chorten. Join in quietly; nobody minds a visitor who follows the custom.
- Carry photo ID for the Rumtek security gate.
- Go early for prayers at Enchey and Rumtek.
- Check festival dates for cham dances; they follow the lunar calendar.
Questions people ask
Good to know
Which monastery should I visit in Gangtok?
If you see only one, make it Rumtek, 24 km away, the largest monastery in Sikkim and seat of the Karma Kagyu in exile, inaugurated in 1966. In town, Enchey at dawn and Do-drul Chorten with its 108 prayer wheels are the best. Add the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology for history.
How far is Rumtek from Gangtok?
About 24 km and an hour each way via Ranipool. A half-day reserved taxi costs about ₹1,500–2,500 and can include Lingdum at Ranka. Some shared taxis run to Rumtek village in the morning for about ₹60–120 a seat, but they are irregular, so do not rely on a late return.
Do I need ID to visit Rumtek?
Yes. Because of the long dispute over the 17th Karmapa, there is armed security at the gate, and visitors show a photo ID. Foreign nationals should carry their passport and Sikkim permit. A small entry fee is charged. Inside, visitors are welcome outside ritual restrictions.
What is the best time to visit monasteries in Gangtok?
Early morning, around 6–8 am, when monks chant morning prayers at Enchey and Rumtek and the light is soft. For festivals, Losar in February or March, Saga Dawa in May or June, Pang Lhabsol in August or September and the winter cham dances in December or January are the highlights.
When was Enchey Monastery built?
A small gompa was first built on the Enchey site in the 1840s, on ground the local story says was blessed by the tantric master Lama Drupthob Karpo. The present building dates from 1909. Enchey follows the Nyingma tradition and holds its annual cham dances in winter.
What is Do-drul Chorten?
Do-drul Chorten is a large white stupa in Gangtok, built in 1945–46 by Trulshik Rinpoche of the Nyingma order, ringed by 108 prayer wheels. The local story says it was raised to subdue negative forces at a haunted site. It is a short walk from the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology.
What is Lingdum or Ranka Monastery?
Lingdum, also called Ranka or the Pal Zurmang Kagyud Monastery, is a modern monastery about 20 km from Gangtok, completed in 1999 in the Zurmang Kagyu tradition. Its large, colourful buildings and courtyard are popular with photographers. Most taxis combine it with Rumtek in a half day.
Is the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology worth visiting?
Yes, for anyone curious about Tibetan Buddhism or Sikkim's history. Its museum holds thangkas, statues, ritual objects and rare manuscripts, and it was inaugurated by Jawaharlal Nehru in 1958. Allow an hour. It is usually closed on Sundays and public holidays; check current status before you travel.
Can I take photos inside Gangtok's monasteries?
Often in courtyards, but rules inside prayer halls vary, and some forbid photography. Always ask a monk or caretaker first, never use flash during prayers, and do not photograph people at worship without permission. At Rumtek, follow the security staff's instructions.