The shrine of Baba Harbhajan Singh

Harbhajan Singh was born in 1946 and joined the Indian Army in 1965. He died near Nathu La on 4 October 1968. Army tradition holds that his spirit continued to serve: soldiers tell of him appearing in dreams to warn of danger, and the shrine built in his memory became a place of faith for the troops posted on this border. Whatever you believe, it is treated with complete seriousness here, and visitors should do the same.

There are two shrines. The original, often called the old Baba Mandir, is a bunker shrine on the far side of the ridge towards Kupup and Gnathang, reached on the Silk Route. The one most Nathu La visitors see is the newer, larger shrine on the main road between Tsomgo and the pass, built by the army in 1982 to be easier to reach. Inside are his photograph, his uniform and boots, and a room kept as if he still lived there.

Visitors leave bottles of water to be blessed and collect them on the way out; many believe the water helps the sick. Remove shoes before entering, cover your head if asked and keep your voice down. Soldiers on duty may tell the story; listen and thank them. There is usually a small army-run shop or canteen nearby for tea.

Cost: Free · offerings optional