Nathu La

The 4,310 m border pass on the old Lhasa road, for Indians only

Altitude4,310m Nights0 BestApr – May · Oct – Nov

Photo: Indrajit Das · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

In brief

Nathu La is a pass at 4,310 m on the India–China border, about 54 km and 2.5–3 hours from Gangtok. Only Indian citizens may visit, with a permit arranged a day ahead by a registered operator, on set days of the week. A reserved car with Tsomgo and Baba Mandir costs about ₹5,500–7,500.

The local story

The listening-ears pass on the road to Lhasa

Nathu La is usually explained as the listening-ears pass, sometimes as the whistling pass, la being Tibetan for pass. It crosses the Dongkya Range between Sikkim and the Chumbi valley of Tibet. J. W. Edgar surveyed it in 1873 and found Tibetans trading over it. Francis Younghusband's expedition used it in 1903–04, and for the first half of the 20th century mule trains carried wool, salt and tea over Nathu La and its neighbour Jelep La, about 4.8 km away, between Lhasa, Gangtok and Kalimpong.

Work to make the Gangtok–Nathu La road fit for motor vehicles began in 1954. Jawaharlal Nehru formally opened it on 17 September 1958, in the presence of the Chogyal of Sikkim; the motor road then ended at Sherathang, below the pass. Two years earlier, in 1956, the Dalai Lama had crossed Nathu La to India for the 2,500th Buddha Jayanti. After the 1962 war the pass was sealed, and in September 1967 Indian and Chinese troops fought here, with deaths on both sides.

Ties slowly improved. Indian tourists were allowed up to the pass from 1999, and on 6 July 2006 Nathu La reopened for border trade, with a trade mart at Sherathang. From 2015 it became a second route for Indian pilgrims to Kailash and Mansarovar. Today soldiers of the two armies stand only metres apart across a fence, and the pass is one of the five points where they hold formal Border Personnel Meetings.

Twice a week, on Thursdays and Sundays, Indian and Chinese postmen exchange international surface mail at Nathu La's Sherathang post, a handover lasting only a few minutes.

The Gangtok–Nathu La road was formally opened by Jawaharlal Nehru on 17 September 1958, when the motor road ended at Sherathang below the pass.

Nathu La reopened for India–China border trade on 6 July 2006, after decades sealed; trade runs only on set weekdays and for about seven to eight months a year.

About Nathu La

Nathu La is the end of the road for tourists in East Sikkim, and the highest point most visitors to Gangtok reach. The drive from town climbs from 1,650 m to 4,310 m in about 54 km, past Tsomgo Lake and the new Baba Mandir, into bare, windswept country of rock, snow and army camps. At the top, a short climb of steps from the parking area leads to a viewing area near the fence, with Chinese soldiers and buildings visible just across it.

It is a place to visit for its history and its height rather than for comfort. The air is thin, the wind fierce and the weather changes fast. Only Indian citizens may go, on a permit arranged a day ahead in Gangtok, and the pass opens to tourists only on certain days of the week, usually not Mondays or Tuesdays. Snow, army orders and border tensions can close it at short notice. Check current status before you travel.

What to see and do

The border fence

From the parking area, steps climb to a viewing area by the fence at 4,310 m, with Chinese soldiers and buildings only metres away. Indian soldiers explain the rules on the spot. Photography is limited, so follow their instructions exactly and do not wave, shout or point cameras where told not to.

The road above Tsomgo

Beyond Tsomgo Lake the road leaves the last trees and climbs through open slopes of rock, scree and snow. On clear days you see ridge after bare ridge, small lakes in hollows and army camps along the way. It is one of the highest motor roads most Indian tourists will ever travel.

The new Baba Mandir

On the way back most cars stop at the shrine to Sepoy Harbhajan Singh, who died near Nathu La on 4 October 1968. Army tradition holds that his spirit still guards the border. Soldiers keep the shrine, and visitors leave bottles of water to be blessed.

The old trade road

Nathu La and Jelep La, about 4.8 km apart, carried the wool, salt and tea trade between Lhasa and Kalimpong until 1962. Since 6 July 2006, licensed traders have again crossed at Nathu La on set days. The trade mart at Sherathang lies below the pass.

Snow in summer

At 4,310 m snow can lie around the pass well into May and fresh falls are possible in any month outside the monsoon. For families from the plains, Nathu La in April or May is often the first chance to see deep snow without the January cold.

A history lesson at the top

The pass saw Younghusband's column in 1903–04, the Dalai Lama's crossing in 1956, Nehru's road in 1958 and the clashes of September 1967. Army boards near the pass tell some of the story. Ask the soldiers questions politely; many are glad to talk.

How to get there

Reserved car: Almost everyone goes in a reserved Sikkim-registered car booked through a registered Gangtok operator, usually combined with Tsomgo and Baba Mandir, for about ₹5,500–7,500. The operator applies for the permit a day ahead with your photo ID and passport photos.
Shared seat: Some Gangtok tour desks sell shared seats to Nathu La on its open days, for roughly ₹1,500–2,500 including the permit. Availability depends on demand and permit quotas, so ask a day or two ahead. It is the cheapest way for solo travellers and pairs.
Not by own vehicle: Private and outside vehicles are generally not allowed beyond the checkposts, and permits are tied to registered tourist vehicles. Leave your own car in Gangtok. Rules change, so check current status before you travel.

Where to stay

There is nowhere for tourists to stay at Nathu La; it is a military area and a day trip, and cars must return in the afternoon. Sleep in Gangtok, 2.5–3 hours below, where you can find dorm beds and plain rooms near MG Marg, family-run guesthouses such as Mintokling and Netuk House, and budget hotels on the lower roads. A good night's sleep in Gangtok before the trip helps with the altitude. If you want to stay higher, the Silk Route homestays at Gnathang and Zuluk are reached by a different permit.

Local tips

Spend at least one night in Gangtok before going to Nathu La, and do not attempt it on the day you arrive from the plains.
Carry an original photo ID on the day, as well as the copies you gave for the permit; soldiers check at several posts.
Climb the steps to the viewing area very slowly and stay no more than 20–30 minutes at the top.
Follow every instruction from soldiers about photography and where to stand; this is an active border.
Start early, because weather at the pass often turns in the afternoon and vehicles must head down by a set time.

02,7005,400

Altitude4,310 m

Very high: go up and come down the same day, and skip it with heart or lung trouble.

What it costs here

Reserved car, Tsomgo, Baba Mandir and Nathu La₹5,500–7,500 a car

Shared seat to Nathu La, where offered₹1,500–2,500

Nathu La permit, through an operatorSmall fee, usually built into the car price

Boot and coat hire on the way₹100–200 each

Tea and snacks near the pass, where open₹30–150

Passport photos and photocopies in Gangtok₹50–150

Indicative, 2025–26. Check current status before you travel.

Best months: Apr – Jun · Oct – Nov
Nights we suggest: 0 (day trip from Gangtok)
From Gangtok: ≈ 54 km · 2.5–3 h
Altitude: 4,310 m (14,140 ft)
Known for: India–China border, Silk Route history, snow
Network: Weak or none; army area

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

BestGoodAvoid or closed

Things to do

Four things to do in Nathu La

Viewpoints · 20–30 minutes at the topAt the fence on the India–China borderNathu La · Included in your car and permit

Culture and history · 30–45 minutesThe shrine of Baba Harbhajan SinghNathu La · Free · offerings optional

Culture and history · Woven through the day tripThe trade road and the 1967 clashesNathu La · Free

Adventure · 8–9 hours from GangtokA full day to Tsomgo, Baba Mandir and Nathu LaNathu La · ₹5,500–7,500 a reserved car

On the map

Nathu La and its neighbours

Drawn by Darjeeling Himalayas from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Close by

Nearby places

lake3,753 m Tsomgo Lake A sacred glacial lake at 3,753 m, an hour and a half above Gangtok

village3,980 m Kupup Elephant Lake and an army golf course below the old Jelep La

valley3,900 m Gnathang A high yak valley on the Silk Route, scene of the 1888 fighting

town1,650 m Gangtokगान्तोक A royal hilltop capital since 1894, built for walking

Ways to travel

Snow and high passes Photography Family trips

Questions people ask

Questions about Nathu La

Who can visit Nathu La?

Only Indian citizens may visit Nathu La, with a permit arranged a day ahead through a registered Gangtok operator, using a photo ID and passport photos. Foreign nationals, including OCI holders, are not allowed and usually visit Tsomgo Lake instead. Rules can change, so check current status before you travel.

Which days is Nathu La open for tourists?

Nathu La usually opens to tourists on four or five days a week and stays shut on Mondays and Tuesdays, but the days change with army orders, snow and border conditions, and closures can come at short notice. Ask your operator when you apply for the permit, and check current status before you travel.

How far is Nathu La from Gangtok?

About 54 km, which takes 2.5–3 hours each way on a steep mountain road past Tsomgo Lake. A full day covering Tsomgo, Baba Mandir and Nathu La takes about 8–9 hours, leaving Gangtok around 7 am. Vehicles must head down from the pass by early afternoon.

How high is Nathu La?

Nathu La is at 4,310 m (14,140 ft), more than 2,600 m above Gangtok. Most people feel the height: breathlessness, headaches and tiredness are common. Spend a night in Gangtok first, climb the steps slowly, drink water and go down at once if anyone feels very unwell.

Is Nathu La safe for children and senior citizens?

Healthy older children and fit seniors usually manage a short visit, but the altitude is serious. Infants, pregnant women and people with heart, lung or blood-pressure problems should take medical advice and may be better off stopping at Tsomgo. Keep everyone warm, move slowly and stay only 20–30 minutes.

What is the best time to visit Nathu La?

April to June and October to November give the best mix of open roads and clear skies. From December to March snow often closes the pass for days, though it can be open between falls. From July to September landslides and cloud make the trip uncertain. Check current status before you travel.

Does it snow at Nathu La?

Yes. Snow usually covers Nathu La from about December to April and can fall in any month outside the monsoon. Even in May, patches of deep snow are common around the pass. Heavy falls close the road until it is cleared. Wear boots with grip and dress for well below freezing.

Can we go to Nathu La by our own car?

Generally no. Permits are issued with Sikkim-registered tourist vehicles booked through registered operators, and private or outside vehicles are stopped at the checkposts. Hire a local car or join a shared seat in Gangtok. Check current status before you travel, as rules occasionally change.

Is there mobile network at Nathu La?

Usually weak or none, and in places phones may pick up foreign networks near the border, which can bring roaming charges. Set your phone to avoid roaming or switch to flight mode near the pass. Tell family you will be offline for most of the day.