Kupup

Elephant Lake and an army golf course below the old Jelep La

Altitude3,980m Nights0 BestApr – May · Oct – Nov

Photo: Rangan Datta Wiki · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

In brief

Kupup is an army hamlet at about 3,950–4,000 m in East Sikkim, below the Dongkya Range close to Jelep La. Travellers stop for Bitang Tso, the Elephant Lake, and the army's Yak Golf Course, on the Silk Route between Gnathang and Tsomgo. It needs a Silk Route permit and a car; there is nowhere to sleep.

The local story

Below Jelep La, the lovely level pass

Kupup lies in a valley below the Dongkya Range, a few kilometres from Jelep La, the pass that carried more trade between India and Tibet than any other in the Raj era. Mule trains came up from Kalimpong through Pedong, Rongli, Zuluk and Gnathang, rested near here, then crossed Jelep La into the Chumbi valley and on towards Lhasa. Wool came south for Kalimpong's warehouses; cloth, tools, sugar and tea went north.

In 1888 British troops pushed Tibetan forces back over these passes, and in 1903–04 Younghusband's column came this way towards Lhasa. After 1959 the trade thinned, and after the 1962 war Jelep La was closed for good. Kupup became an army post on a sensitive frontier. A border road from Kupup now leads to Doka La, near the disputed Doklam plateau, where Indian and Chinese troops faced each other for over two months in 2017.

Kupup's most famous sight is a lake. A moraine ridge across the valley forms part of the watershed between the Teesta and the Dichu rivers, and below it lies Bitang Tso, which the army and travellers call the Elephant Lake for its shape when seen from the road above. It is conventionally held to be the source of the Dichu. Beside it, on rare flat ground, the army laid out a golf course.

Bitang Tso, the Elephant Lake at Kupup, is conventionally held to be the source of the Dichu river; a moraine ridge nearby divides the Teesta and Dichu basins.

Jelep La, a few kilometres from Kupup, is only about 4.8 km from Nathu La; it was the main Kalimpong–Lhasa trade pass until the border closed after 1962.

A border road from Kupup leads to Doka La, near the Doklam plateau, scene of a standoff between Indian and Chinese troops from June to August 2017.

About Kupup

Kupup is not a village in the usual sense: a scatter of army buildings, a few huts and the road, in an open, windswept valley at about 4,000 m. Travellers see it on the Silk Route, usually on the day they drive from Zuluk or Gnathang towards Tsomgo and Gangtok, or as an out-and-back from Gnathang. The reason to stop is the view of Bitang Tso, the Elephant Lake, below the road, and the army's Yak Golf Course on the flat ground nearby.

This is high, cold and restricted country. Indian travellers need the Silk Route permit, arranged at Rongli or by a Gangtok operator, and a registered Sikkim car; foreign nationals face tighter and changing rules. Snow can cover Kupup from December to April and close the road. There is no tourist accommodation, so sleep at Gnathang or Zuluk below, or return to Gangtok. Check current status before you travel.

What to see and do

Bitang Tso, the Elephant Lake

Seen from the road above, this small glacial lake has the outline of an elephant, trunk and all, which is why everyone calls it the Elephant Lake. It is conventionally held to be the source of the Dichu river. It freezes in winter and turns deep blue on clear autumn days.

The Yak Golf Course

On a flat stretch of valley floor near Kupup, the army maintains the Yak Golf Course, often described as one of the highest golf courses in the world. You see it from the road; playing is for army guests. It makes an odd and memorable sight in this bare country.

The old Jelep La road

Kupup lies a few kilometres below Jelep La, the main pass of the Kalimpong–Lhasa wool trade until 1962. Tourists cannot go to the pass, but the valley gives a sense of the route the mule trains climbed. Ask your driver to point out its direction.

The crossing to Tsomgo

From Kupup the road climbs over a shoulder to join the Nathu La road near the new Baba Mandir, then descends past Tsomgo Lake to Gangtok. It turns the Silk Route into a loop and avoids doubling back through Zuluk and Rongli. Permits and road status decide whether you can.

High-altitude country

Around Kupup the land is above the tree line: rock, scree, alpine grass and small lakes, with yaks grazing in summer. On clear days the snow ridges of the Dongkya Range stand behind. The light is harsh and the wind strong; this is no place for long walks.

How to get there

Reserved SUV on the Silk Route: Most travellers reach Kupup in an SUV hired for the Silk Route, at ₹5,000–7,000 a day, coming up from Zuluk and Gnathang. The operator or homestay arranges the Rongli permit with photo ID copies and passport photos. Kupup is about 15–20 km beyond Gnathang.
Via Tsomgo from Gangtok: Some operators run Kupup from Gangtok via Tsomgo and Baba Mandir, about 70 km and 3–3.5 hours, as a long day trip or the first leg of a reverse Silk Route loop. It depends on the permits that season. Check current status before you travel.

Where to stay

There is no tourist accommodation at Kupup; it is an army area, and travellers pass through. The nearest beds are the family homestays of Gnathang, about 15–20 km away, at around 3,800–4,000 m, where you get a simple room, heavy quilts and dinner and breakfast for about ₹1,200–2,000 per person. Lower and warmer, Zuluk's homestays are another hour beyond. If you come via Tsomgo, return to Gangtok for the night, where budget rooms and family guesthouses are easy to find.

Local tips

Sleep at least one night at Zuluk or Padamchen before reaching Kupup, rather than driving up from Gangtok or Rongli in one go.
Carry extra copies of your photo ID and passport photos; army posts on this stretch check documents.
Do not photograph army camps, vehicles or soldiers without permission.
Keep stops at Kupup short, drink water and turn back if anyone has a severe headache or feels confused.
Ask your driver before the trip whether the crossing from Kupup to Tsomgo is open on your permit.

02,7005,400

Altitude3,980 m

Thin air: walk slowly, drink water and sleep lower if you get a headache.

What it costs here

Reserved SUV for the Silk Route₹5,000–7,000 a day

Silk Route permitSmall fee; agent may charge for arranging it

Tea or noodles at an army or roadside stall, where open₹30–150

Homestay at Gnathang with dinner and breakfast₹1,200–2,000 pp

Boot and coat hire in Gangtok or on the way₹100–200 each

Indicative, 2025–26. Check current status before you travel.

Best months: Apr – May · Oct – Nov
Nights we suggest: 0 (stop on the Silk Route)
From Gangtok: ≈ 70 km · 3–3.5 h via Tsomgo
Altitude: ≈ 3,950–4,000 m
Known for: Elephant Lake, Yak Golf Course, Jelep La
Network: None for most of the way

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

BestGoodAvoid or closed

Things to do

Four things to do in Kupup

Viewpoints · 20–30 minutesElephant Lake from the road above KupupKupup · Included in your Silk Route car

Viewpoints · 15–20 minutesThe army's Yak Golf CourseKupup · Free to view from the road

Culture and history · 30 minutes, as part of the driveLooking up the old road to Jelep LaKupup · Free

Adventure · 2.5–3.5 hours to GangtokOver the top from Kupup to TsomgoKupup · Part of a ₹5,000–7,000 a day SUV

On the map

Kupup and its neighbours

Drawn by Darjeeling Himalayas from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Close by

Nearby places

valley3,900 m Gnathang A high yak valley on the Silk Route, scene of the 1888 fighting

village2,900 m Zuluk An old mule-train halt on the road to Jelep La, now homestays

pass4,310 m Nathu La The 4,310 m border pass on the old Lhasa road, for Indians only

lake3,753 m Tsomgo Lake A sacred glacial lake at 3,753 m, an hour and a half above Gangtok

Ways to travel

Snow and high passes Photography Solo and backpacking

Questions people ask

Questions about Kupup

Do we need a permit to visit Kupup?

Yes. Indian travellers need the Silk Route permit, which covers Zuluk, Gnathang and Kupup, arranged at Rongli or through a registered Gangtok operator with photo ID copies and passport photos. Foreign nationals face separate, tighter rules that change often. Check current status before you travel.

How high is Kupup?

Kupup lies at about 3,950–4,000 m, more than 2,300 m above Gangtok and about 1,000 m above Zuluk. Breathlessness and headaches are common. Sleep a night lower down first, walk slowly and keep stops short. Go down at once if anyone feels faint, confused or very sick.

How do we get to Kupup from Gangtok?

Either via Tsomgo and Baba Mandir, about 70 km and 3–3.5 hours, if the permit allows, or via Rongli, Zuluk and Gnathang, about 120 km, usually over two days with a night at Zuluk. Most people hire an SUV for the Silk Route at ₹5,000–7,000 a day.

Can we stay overnight at Kupup?

No, there is no tourist accommodation at Kupup, which is an army area. Stay at the homestays of Gnathang, about 15–20 km away, for ₹1,200–2,000 per person with meals, or lower down at Zuluk. Coming via Tsomgo, return to Gangtok for the night.

What is the best time to visit Kupup?

October and November give clear skies and blue water at the Elephant Lake; April and May bring melting snow and longer days. December to March is very cold, with the lake frozen and the road often closed by snow. The monsoon months bring cloud and landslides.

Can foreigners visit Kupup?

Rules for foreign nationals on the Silk Route, including Kupup, are stricter than for Indians and have changed several times. Foreigners need a Restricted Area Permit for Sikkim and may need a further permit through a registered agent, if access is allowed at all. Ask a Gangtok agent and check current status before you travel.

Is Kupup on the Nathu La day trip?

Not usually. The standard Gangtok day trip goes to Tsomgo, Nathu La and the new Baba Mandir, and turns back before Kupup. Kupup is reached on the Silk Route or on a special permit via Tsomgo. Ask your operator if you want to include it.

Is there food at Kupup?

Very little. An army-run or roadside stall may sell tea, coffee and instant noodles in season, but do not rely on it. Carry water, biscuits, dry fruit and a flask of tea from your homestay. Eat breakfast before you set out for the day.

Is Kupup safe for children and older travellers?

Healthy children and fit older travellers who have slept a night at Zuluk usually manage a short stop. Infants and anyone with heart or lung problems should not go up without medical advice. Keep everyone warm and hydrated, stay briefly and turn back if anyone feels unwell.