Culture and history · Rumtek
Down to old Rumtek through the village
A short walk downhill from the new monastery through Rumtek village to the older gompa on the site of the 18th-century foundation. It is quieter than the main monastery and shows the village behind the sight: kitchen gardens, prayer flags and small shrines.
Before 1959 Rumtek had only the old monastery, built in the mid-18th century under the 12th Karmapa and later left in poor repair. The 16th Karmapa built his new seat higher up, but the old site was kept and restored, and a smaller gompa stands there today. Few day visitors go down, which is exactly why we like it: you are more likely to meet a caretaker monk or a village woman turning the prayer wheels than a tour group.
The walk starts outside the gate of the new monastery and drops through the village on a mix of road and path, past houses with cardamom and vegetable plots, chortens and strings of prayer flags. Allow 20–30 minutes down and a little longer back up. Ask a shopkeeper for the way, because the path is not signposted. The gompa may be locked; if so, walk round it clockwise and enjoy the quiet.
Go in the morning, when the light is good and the village is busy with school children and farm work, or in the late afternoon, when it softens. Wear shoes with grip, as some steps are steep and slippery after rain. On the way back up, the tea shops near the gate make a good stop for momos and a cup of tea before your taxi.
Cost: Free
Questions people ask
Good to know
Is the old Rumtek monastery worth visiting?
Yes, if you have an extra hour. The old monastery is smaller and simpler than the main Rumtek seat, but it is quiet, rarely crowded and stands on the site of the 18th-century foundation. The walk through the village is half the pleasure. It may be locked at times.
How far is old Rumtek from the new monastery?
It is a short walk below the new monastery, about 20–30 minutes downhill through the village and a little longer back up. The path is not signposted, so ask a shopkeeper near the gate. A taxi can also drop you, but the walk is the point.
Is the village walk suitable for older travellers?
It is manageable for most fit older travellers who go slowly, but the return is uphill and some steps are steep and slippery in wet weather. Wear shoes with grip and carry water. Anyone who finds hills hard can ask their taxi to collect them below.
Also in Rumtek
More things to do
Monasteries · 1–1.5 hoursMorning prayers in Rumtek's main hallRumtek · Free · donation welcome
Culture and history · 1 hourThe golden stupa and the monks' collegeRumtek · Free · donation customary at the stupa
Monasteries · 1–1.5 hours plus driveLingdum Monastery on the Ranka roadRumtek · Free · donation welcome