Adventure · Zuluk
Up the old trade road to Gnathang and Kupup
A full day from Zuluk along the Silk Route past Thambi and Lungthung to the high Gnathang valley, the old Baba Mandir and Kupup, where Bitang Tso lies below the Dongkya Range. It follows the line of the Raj-era trade road towards Jelep La and climbs to about 4,000 m.
Beyond Lungthung the road leaves the forest and enters open, high country. The Gnathang valley, at roughly 3,800–4,000 m, is a broad grassy bowl with yak herders, a small monastery and a handful of homestays; the 2011 census counted 13 households and 60 people in Gnathang village. On 22 May 1888 British and Tibetan forces clashed here, and war memorials stand along this stretch of road. It is a quiet place now, and very cold at night.
Further on is the old Baba Mandir, the original bunker shrine of Sepoy Harbhajan Singh of the Punjab Regiment, who died near Nathu La on 4 October 1968. Army tradition holds that his spirit still guards the border; treat that as faith, and respect it. Then comes Kupup, around 3,950–4,000 m, below the Dongkya Range near Jelep La. Bitang Tso, the Elephant Lake, is regarded as the source of the Dichu river. Jelep La was the main Kalimpong–Lhasa pass of the Raj era.
Most people make this a day trip from Zuluk, out and back, or continue one way to Gangtok via Baba Mandir and Tsomgo if their permit and car allow. Take it slowly: you gain over 1,000 m from Zuluk, and headaches are common. Carry water, snacks, sun cream and dark glasses, because the snow glare is strong. Snow can close the road from December to April, and landslides can close it in the monsoon. Check current status before you travel.
Cost: Included in a ₹5,000–7,000 a day SUV
Questions people ask
Good to know
Can we go from Zuluk to Gangtok via Kupup and Tsomgo?
Often yes. The Silk Route continues from Zuluk through Gnathang and Kupup to the Nathu La road, then down past Tsomgo to Gangtok. Whether you may do it depends on your permit and on the road being open, and some drivers prefer to return via Rongli. Check current status before you travel.
How high is Kupup and is it safe?
Kupup lies at about 3,950–4,000 m, more than 1,000 m above Zuluk. Healthy adults who slept a night at Zuluk usually manage a short visit, but headaches and breathlessness are common. Do not run, avoid alcohol the night before, keep children warm, and turn back if anyone feels faint, confused or very unwell.
Can we stay overnight at Gnathang?
Yes, Gnathang has a few family homestays and some travellers stay a night there. It is colder than Zuluk, well below freezing on winter nights, and at about 3,800–4,000 m it is a big jump in height. We suggest at least one night at Zuluk or Padamchen first, and sleeping at Gnathang only if everyone is well.
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