Food · Chimney
A homestay supper by the bukhari
Eat a hill family's dinner beside a bukhari, the iron wood stove of Darjeeling winters: rice, dal, local greens, squash, perhaps chicken or pork, and pickles made in the house.
The bukhari is a small iron stove with a chimney pipe, fed with wood or coal, that heats the main room of many hill houses in winter. In a Chimney homestay it is where everyone gathers after dark, and dinner often comes to you there.
Expect rice, dal, a vegetable such as iskus (chayote squash), seasonal greens, potatoes from the ridge fields and a pickle of radish or chilli. In winter you might get gundruk, fermented leafy greens, in a sour soup. Meat dishes, chicken or pork, cost extra in some homes.
Ask your host about what they grow; most families on this ridge farm vegetables. Tell them in advance if you are vegetarian or do not eat certain things.
Cost: Included in homestay rate
Questions people ask
Good to know
What food do Chimney homestays serve?
Home-style Nepali hill food: rice, dal, seasonal vegetables such as chayote squash and greens, potatoes, pickles and sometimes chicken or pork. Breakfast is often puri or roti with potato curry, or bread and eggs. Meals are usually included in the per-person rate.
Do homestays in Chimney have heating?
Many keep a bukhari wood stove in the main room and give heavy quilts. Some offer electric heaters, sometimes for a small extra charge. Ask before you book in December and January, when nights can approach freezing.
Can I get vegetarian food in Chimney?
Yes. Most hill homestay meals are vegetable-based anyway, with dal, rice and greens. Tell your host when you book so they can plan, and mention any allergies. Vegan diets are harder because ghee and dairy appear in many dishes.
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