Viewpoints · Phalut
Kanchenjunga at dawn, close up
At Phalut dawn comes with the world's third-highest mountain filling the northern sky. Climb to the summit in the dark and watch the light move down Kanchenjunga's faces, then across the whole range of Sikkim and Nepal.
Get up at 4.30 am, dress in everything and climb the short path to the top with a head torch. The stars fade, the eastern sky lightens behind Sikkim, and Kanchenjunga, 8,586 m, stands black against grey. The first light hits its summit, then spills down the faces and across to its neighbours.
From here you see far more of the massif than from Darjeeling: the main summits, the long ridges, the glaciers draining into Sikkim and Nepal. Kabru and the peaks of the Sleeping Buddha line up to the east; to the west the high peaks of eastern Nepal run on toward Makalu and Everest.
Stay until the sun reaches you. Then walk down, eat breakfast and pack for the long descent to Gorkhey. This is the last high dawn of the trek.
Cost: Free
Questions people ask
Good to know
How cold is Phalut at dawn?
In October and November, about −5 to 0 °C, with strong wind making it feel colder. In April and May, about 0–5 °C. Wear a down jacket, windproof, cap and gloves, and keep your camera batteries warm.
How far is Kanchenjunga from Phalut?
About 55 km in a straight line, compared with about 70 km from Sandakphu and around 75 km from Darjeeling town. That is why the massif looks so much larger from Phalut.
Is the climb to Phalut summit difficult?
No, it is a short walk of 15–20 minutes on grass from the trekkers' hut. In frost or snow it can be slippery. Use a head torch before dawn and walk with your guide.
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