The local story
The quiet top at the three-way border
Phalut is where the Singalila Ridge stops being a Darjeeling ridge. North of it, the ridge runs on into West Sikkim toward Singalila Pass and the high country below Kanchenjunga; west lies Nepal's Ilam and Taplejung; east, the valleys of the Rammam and Gorkhey rivers fall toward Sikkim. The summit marks the meeting of West Bengal, Sikkim and Nepal, and an SSB post keeps watch.
It has always been the far point. The British-era trekkers who rode to Sandakphu for Everest went on to Phalut for Kanchenjunga, which from here is only about 55 km away and fills the northern sky. In 1905 the Jacot-Guillarmod and Crowley expedition followed this ridge north on its way to Kanchenjunga's south-west face. Today, Phalut has a trekkers' hut and little else, which is exactly its appeal: on most autumn days you share it with a handful of trekkers, the border guards and the wind.
