Food · Khecheopalri
A homestay supper of gundruk and churpi
Spend a night in a Khecheopalri homestay and eat what the family eats: rice, dal, local greens, gundruk, perhaps churpi and a fiery dalle chilli pickle, cooked on a wood or gas fire. It is the cheapest and warmest way to understand the village.
Homestay dinners in West Sikkim are simple and filling. Expect rice, a lentil dal, a vegetable or two from the garden, and often a dish of local greens such as nettle (sisnu) or ferns (ningro) in season. Many families keep gundruk, fermented and dried leafy greens, for soups and pickles, especially in winter. You may also be offered churpi, a local cheese made from cow or yak milk, either soft and cooked into a curry or hard for chewing.
The kitchen is usually the warmest room in the house, and guests are often welcome to sit near the fire while the meal is cooked. Ask before you take photographs, offer to help, and do not be shy about asking what something is. Most homes have a jar of pickle made with dalle khursani, the small round chilli of Sikkim and Darjeeling, which is hotter than it looks. Try a tiny piece first. Breakfast might be sel roti, puri or bread with tea.
Some homes brew chhang or tongba, millet beer drunk through a bamboo straw from a wooden or bamboo mug, especially in the cold months. Drink it only if you wish; no one will mind if you say no. Dinner is early, often by 7 or 7.30 pm, and the village goes quiet soon after, so bring a book and warm layers. Settle the bill in cash, as cards and UPI may not work.
Cost: Included in homestay ₹1,500–2,500 pp with breakfast
Questions people ask
Good to know
What food is served in Khecheopalri homestays?
Usually home-style meals: rice, dal, seasonal vegetables and local greens, with pickles. Depending on the season and family, you may get gundruk, churpi, nettle soup or ferns, and sel roti or puri at breakfast. Tell your hosts early about allergies or if you are vegetarian or vegan; most homes cook vegetarian food easily.
Is it safe to drink tongba or chhang?
Tongba and chhang are traditional millet drinks made at home in many hill villages and are usually mild. Drink in moderation, especially at altitude, and skip them if you are taking medicines, pregnant, driving or simply prefer not to. Hosts will not be offended if you politely decline and ask for tea instead.
How do we pay at a village homestay?
Carry cash. Mobile signal is patchy around the lake, so UPI and cards may not work when you need them. Rates of ₹1,500–2,500 per person usually include dinner and breakfast; extra tea, snacks or packed lunches may cost a little more. Confirm the rate and what it includes before you settle in.
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