Culture and history · Tashiding
Thongwa Rangdol and the mani stone kora
Join pilgrims on a slow clockwise circuit of the chortens and carved mani stones on Tashiding hill, pausing at Thongwa Rangdol, the chorten said to cleanse sins by sight alone. Late afternoon, after the day visitors have gone, is the best time.
A kora is a clockwise walk around a sacred place, and Tashiding's hilltop is made for it. Start near the main chortens, a group of white stupas of different sizes, some very old, some rebuilt. Among them is Thongwa Rangdol, the chorten pilgrims seek out because simply seeing it is said to cleanse sins. Its name is usually read as 'saviour by mere sight'. Ask a monk or pilgrim to point it out, as it is not always labelled.
Around the chortens run long walls and rows of mani stones, flat slabs carved with Om Mani Padme Hum and other prayers, many painted in white, red, yellow and blue. Some are covered in moss and lichen; others look recently cut. They have been added over generations by pilgrims who commission them for blessings or in memory of family members. Do not sit on them, step on them, or take any away; they are offerings, not souvenirs.
Walk at the pace of the pilgrims, who are often elderly villagers turning hand prayer wheels as they go. Keep the stones and chortens on your right. Many people make three circuits, or more on special days. Late afternoon is lovely, with long shadows across the stones and the valleys turning blue below. Leave before dark, as the steps down are steep, and drop a small note in a donation box if you would like to support the monastery.
Cost: Free
Questions people ask
Good to know
What is a kora and how do we do it?
A kora is a clockwise walk around a sacred site, such as a chorten, monastery or mountain, performed as prayer. At Tashiding, walk slowly around the chortens and mani stones keeping them on your right, turning prayer wheels with your right hand. There is no fixed number of rounds; many people do three.
What are mani stones?
Mani stones are flat stones or slabs carved with Buddhist prayers, most often Om Mani Padme Hum, the mantra of compassion. They are placed at monasteries, passes and paths as offerings and blessings. At Tashiding they form long rows and walls built up over generations. Never move, sit on or take one.
Can we photograph the chortens at Tashiding?
Yes, the chortens and mani stones are outdoors and photography is generally fine. Be respectful: do not climb on chortens or stones for a better angle, keep to the clockwise direction even with a camera, and ask before photographing pilgrims at prayer. Late afternoon light is best for the stones.
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