The local story
A monastery older than the kingdom
Tashiding Monastery was founded in 1641, a year before the first Chogyal was crowned at Yuksom, by Ngadak Sempa Chempo, one of the three Tibetan lamas who would crown him. The name is usually translated as 'the devoted central glory'. The site is a steep, heart-shaped hill rising between two rivers, the Rathong Chu and the Rangeet. In 1717, during the reign of the third Chogyal, Chakdor Namgyal, the monastery was enlarged, and it grew into one of the most revered sites in Sikkim.
Its holiest object is not a building but a chorten. Thongwa Rangdol, among the many white chortens on the hilltop, is said to wash away the sins of anyone who simply looks at it, and its name is often read as 'saviour by mere sight'. Around the chortens lie long rows of mani stones, slabs carved with prayers such as Om Mani Padme Hum, added over generations by pilgrims and carvers. Walking among them clockwise, turning prayer wheels, is the heart of a visit.
Once a year, on the 14th and 15th days of the first Tibetan month, usually in February or March, Tashiding holds Bumchu. Monks open a sacred vase of water, kept sealed through the year, and read the level of the water as a forecast: full means plenty, low means scarcity, and murky is taken as a sign of trouble ahead. Pilgrims come from across Sikkim and from Nepal and Bhutan, and many carry a little of the blessed water home for family members who could not make the journey.



