DarjeelingHIMALAYAS
Nathu La, Zuluk and the Silk Route in comfort

Gangtok & East Sikkim · Comfort trip

Nathu La, Zuluk and the Silk Route in comfort

Nine days across both of East Sikkim's high roads. Three nights in Gangtok with Tsomgo Lake and the Nathu La border at 4,310 m, then down to Aritar and up the old Silk Route: two nights at Zuluk for Thambi View Point, a night at Gnathang near Kupup and a forest night at Padamchen. One SUV, about ₹45,000 per person.

Fare₹45,000 Nights8 Per day₹5,000 Highest4,310m PaceBalanced

Photo: Ashinpt at enwiki · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Two roads climb from Gangtok's side of East Sikkim towards Tibet. The newer one runs north-east past Tsomgo Lake to Nathu La, where Indian and Chinese troops fought in 1967 and border trade reopened in 2006. The older one, the mule road from Kalimpong to Lhasa, comes up from Rongli through Zuluk to Jelep La; Francis Younghusband's expedition crossed that pass into Tibet in 1903–04, and traders used it until the border closed after the 1962 war. This trip drives both, with time to sleep at height rather than race up and down.

The Gangtok nights come first, which helps your body adjust before the Silk Route's high homestays. After Nathu La you drop to Aritar's lake at about 1,400 m, then climb in stages: two nights at Zuluk, about 2,900 m, one at Gnathang near 4,000 m, and one at Padamchen on the way down. Nathu La and the Silk Route are both generally open to Indian nationals only, on permits, and roads close for snow and landslides. Check current status before you travel.

Why this trip

  • The Nathu La border fence at 4,310 m
  • Tsomgo Lake and Baba Mandir on the Kyongnosla road
  • Dawn over the zigzag road from Thambi View Point
  • Kupup's Elephant Lake and the old pass of Jelep La beyond
  • A night in Gnathang's high valley among yak pastures

Day by day

NJP railway station or Bagdogra airport to NJP railway station or Bagdogra airport · Reserved car

Day01

NJP to Gangtok

Gangtok≈ 114 km · 4–5 h by reserved SUVBreakfast

Your SUV and driver meet you at NJP or Bagdogra; you keep them for nine days. NH10 follows the Teesta to Rangpo and climbs to Gangtok at about 1,650 m. Since the October 2023 flood the road has closed after landslides at times, with cars going round via Kalimpong, so check current status before you travel. Check in at a central guesthouse such as Mintokling, set around a garden near MG Marg. Give your driver photo IDs, photocopies and passport photos for both the Nathu La permit and the Silk Route permit; they are separate applications.

Spend today: ₹400 lunch + ₹600 dinner

Day02

Gangtok's monasteries and the ridge

Gangtok≈ 25 km within town by SUVBreakfast

A gentle day at 1,650–2,200 m to start your body adjusting. See Enchey Monastery at morning prayers, rebuilt in 1909, then the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology, opened in 1958, and the Do-drul Chorten with its 108 prayer wheels. After lunch drive up to Ganesh Tok and Hanuman Tok, kept by the Indian Army, for the view north towards Kanchenjunga, and stop at the Himalayan Zoological Park if you want to see red pandas. Ride the Deorali ropeway in the late afternoon. Eat early and pack warm layers for tomorrow's pass.

Spend today: ₹500 entry fees and ropeway + ₹1,000 food

Day03

Tsomgo Lake, Baba Mandir and Nathu La

Gangtok≈ 54 km each way · 2.5–3 h each way by permit vehicleBreakfast

A permit vehicle registered for the route collects you at 7 am. The road climbs through Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary to Tsomgo Lake at 3,753 m and on to Nathu La. At the pass, walk slowly up the steps to the fence at 4,310 m, where Chinese posts stand a few metres away; photography rules are set by the army on the day. On the way back stop at Baba Mandir, the shrine to Sepoy Harbhajan Singh, and at Tsomgo. Nathu La is commonly reported closed to tourists on Mondays and Tuesdays and shuts for snow, so check current status before you travel.

Spend today: ₹2,000 vehicle share and permit + ₹200 tea + ₹200 boots

Day04

Down to Aritar's lake

Aritar≈ 70 km · 3 h by reserved SUV via Ranipool, Rorathang and RhenockBreakfast, dinner

A low, warm day after the pass. The SUV drops to Ranipool and runs south through Rorathang and Rhenock to Aritar at about 1,400 m. Check in to a homestay with a view room, eat lunch and walk down to Lampokhari Lake, one of the oldest natural lakes in Sikkim, long and narrow in forest, where boats go out until dusk. Before sunset, drive to the foot of Mankhim and climb the steps to the Rai temple on top for the view over Aritar. Sleep low and well: tomorrow the climb begins.

Spend today: ₹2,100 homestay with meals + ₹200 boating + ₹300 lunch

Day05

Through Rongli up to Zuluk

Zuluk≈ 52 km · 2.5–3 h by reserved SUVBreakfast, dinner

From Aritar the road runs to Rongli, the bazaar on the Rangpo river where the Silk Route permit is checked and where you take out the last cash you will need. Then it climbs past Lingtam and through Padamchen's forest of moss and rhododendron into the tight bends below Zuluk, a line of homestays at about 2,900 m with an army camp above. Arrive by early afternoon and keep the rest of the day easy: short walks, plenty of water and tea, no alcohol. Tell your host you want a 4.30 am start for Thambi View Point.

Spend today: ₹2,100 homestay with meals + ₹300 lunch at Rongli

Day06

Thambi View Point and Lungthung

Zuluk≈ 30 km round trip by reserved SUVBreakfast, dinner

Leave in the dark to reach Thambi View Point before sunrise. Below, the Silk Route loops down the slope in bend after bend, and on clear mornings Kanchenjunga lights up beyond Lungthung, a little higher. Drink tea from a roadside stall, photograph the road as the light changes, and come back to Zuluk for breakfast. Spend the rest of the day resting and walking the village; a second night at this height is what makes tomorrow comfortable. In the afternoon light the hairpins throw long shadows, worth a second short drive up if the sky is clear.

Spend today: ₹2,100 homestay with meals + ₹100 tea + ₹300 lunch

Day07

Kupup, the Old Baba Mandir and Gnathang

Gnathang≈ 35 km · 2–3 h by reserved SUV with stopsBreakfast, dinner

Drive up past Gnathang to Kupup, close to 4,000 m, where Elephant Lake, named for its outline, lies below the road and the ridge towards Jelep La, the old pass into Tibet's Chumbi valley, rises to the east. Stop at the Old Baba Mandir, the first shrine to Sepoy Harbhajan Singh. Keep your time at the top short and walk slowly. In the afternoon drop back to Gnathang, a broad valley of yak pastures, prayer flags and a few homestays. The night here is the coldest of the trip; ask for extra quilts and keep a hot water bottle filled.

Spend today: ₹2,100 homestay with meals + ₹200 coat hire + ₹300 lunch

Day08

Down to Padamchen's forest

Padamchen≈ 35 km · 2 h by reserved SUVBreakfast, dinner

Leave Gnathang after breakfast and take the road down slowly, stopping at Thambi View Point again in daylight and at Zuluk for tea with your hosts. Below Zuluk the road drops into Padamchen, a small village and army post in thick forest of moss, fern and rhododendron, much warmer than the night before. Spend the afternoon walking the road and the forest edge, watching for birds, and doing nothing much. A night at this lower height means you start tomorrow's long drive rested rather than after a cold, broken sleep at altitude.

Spend today: ₹2,100 homestay with meals + ₹300 lunch

Day09

Padamchen to NJP or Bagdogra

≈ 125 km · 5–6 h by reserved SUVBreakfast

Start after an early breakfast. The SUV runs down to Rongli, then to Rorathang and Rangpo, the Sikkim border town at the meeting of the Rangpo river and the Teesta, and joins NH10 to Siliguri. If NH10 is shut after landslides, as it has often been since the October 2023 flood, the driver goes via Rhenock, Pedong and Kalimpong instead, along the line of the old mule road. Allow six hours to NJP or Bagdogra and do not book a train or flight before late afternoon. Check current status before you travel.

Spend today: ₹300 lunch + driver's tip

Included

  • Reserved SUV and driver for 9 days, shared by four
  • Permit vehicle for Tsomgo, Baba Mandir and Nathu La
  • Nathu La and Silk Route permits through a registered operator
  • Gangtok guesthouse, 3 nights twin share with breakfast
  • Homestays at Aritar, Zuluk, Gnathang and Padamchen with dinner and breakfast

Not included

  • Train or flight to NJP or Bagdogra
  • Yak rides at Tsomgo
  • Driver's night halt charges if not in the quote
  • Personal warm clothing
  • Alcohol and shopping

Three ways to spend less

  • Book the SUV for the whole nine days in one quote with night halts included; separate transfers and day hires cost far more.
  • Fill the SUV with four or five travellers, as the daily rate stays the same whatever the number of seats used.
  • Bring your own down jacket, gloves and boots rather than hiring them each day at Tsomgo and Kupup.

Good to know

  • Nathu La and the Silk Route above Rongli are generally open to Indian nationals only; check current status before you travel.
  • Nathu La is commonly reported closed to tourists on Mondays and Tuesdays; plan day 3 for Wednesday to Sunday.
  • Carry at least six photocopies of photo ID and six passport photos per person for the two permits and checkpoints.
  • There is no ATM you can count on above Rongli; carry cash for four nights.
  • Snow can close the roads above Zuluk and to Nathu La from December to March, and landslides are common from June to September.

The route

Where the trip goes

Map of Gangtok, Aritar, Zuluk, Gnathang, PadamchenIndiaChinaBhutanGangtok1GangtokAritar2AritarZuluk3ZulukGnathang4GnathangPadamchen5Padamchen10 kmN
  1. 1Gangtok 3 nights
  2. 2Aritar 1 night
  3. 3Zuluk 2 nights
  4. 4Gnathang 1 night
  5. 5Padamchen 1 night
Drawn by Darjeeling Himalayas from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Questions people ask

Questions about this trip

Can we do Nathu La and the Silk Route in one trip?

Yes, as two separate drives with separate permits. Nathu La is a day trip from Gangtok; the Silk Route goes up from Rongli and needs its own permit for the Rongli subdivision. Doing Nathu La first, then sleeping at Aritar and climbing through Zuluk, lets your body adjust gradually. Both are generally for Indian nationals only. Check current status before you travel.

Is sleeping at Gnathang safe?

For healthy adults who have spent two nights at Zuluk first, usually yes, but it is the hardest night of the trip, close to 4,000 m and very cold. Walk slowly, drink water, eat well and skip alcohol. A headache that will not go, vomiting, breathlessness at rest or confusion means you should drive down at once, even at night.

How much does this trip cost?

About ₹45,000 per person for eight nights, four sharing the SUV and twin rooms, indicative for 2025–26. The SUV at about ₹5,000–7,000 a day is the biggest cost. Two people alone in the car would pay roughly ₹13,000 more each. Homestays on the Silk Route cost ₹1,200–2,500 per person with dinner and breakfast.

Why is this a Comfort trip if it uses homestays?

Because of the private SUV for nine days, the central Gangtok guesthouse, the better rooms we suggest at each homestay and a slower pace with no shared transport. Silk Route villages have no hotels, so even the most expensive trips sleep in homestays there. Ask for view rooms and attached bathrooms when you book.

Which permits do we need?

Two: the Tsomgo and Nathu La permit, applied about a day ahead through a registered Gangtok operator, and the Silk Route permit for the Rongli subdivision, covering Zuluk, Gnathang and Kupup, usually arranged by the operator or your homestay. Each needs photo ID, photocopies and passport photos. Check current status before you travel.

Can foreigners do any of this trip?

Only part. Foreign travellers can visit Gangtok, Rumtek, Aritar and Rongli on the free Sikkim Restricted Area Permit, and Tsomgo Lake on a Protected Area Permit in a group. Nathu La and the Silk Route above Rongli are generally closed to foreign nationals. Check current status before you travel.

When is the best time to go?

October and November for clear views of Kanchenjunga and dry roads, and April and May for rhododendrons and less biting cold. December to March brings heavy snow, which can close Nathu La and the road above Zuluk for days. June to September brings fog, rain and landslides, and we do not recommend it.

What is the Old Baba Mandir?

The original shrine to Sepoy Harbhajan Singh, an Indian Army soldier who died near Nathu La in 1968 and is revered by soldiers as a guardian of the border. It stands near Kupup on the Silk Route side and is quieter than the newer Baba Mandir on the Tsomgo–Nathu La road, which most tours visit.

What should we pack?

A down jacket, thermals, fleece, warm hat, gloves, woollen socks and boots with grip; sunglasses and sunscreen for snow; a headtorch; a hot water bottle; basic medicines for headache, colds and stomach upsets; cash for the Silk Route nights; and plenty of ID photocopies and passport photos for both permits and the checkpoints.

Plan with a local

Tell us your dates. We send the real cost

Where you want to go, how many of you, and roughly what you want to spend a day. A planner who lives in these hills replies within one working day with a route and every rupee written down.

  • No payment to start
  • Shared jeep or private car, your choice
  • Homestays we have slept in
  • Change anything, any time before you book

Get a priced route

Within one working day. No payment to start.

We reply by email or WhatsApp. See our privacy policy.

Ask about this trip