The short answer
Sikkim borders Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan, and much of the state above Gangtok is under army control. That is why the best-known trips from Gangtok, to Tsomgo Lake, Nathu La, the Silk Route through Zuluk and North Sikkim, all need permits. For Indian travellers the process is simple once you understand it: you hand copies of your photo ID and passport photos to a registered tour operator or driver, usually the day before, and they get the permit with your vehicle. You cannot normally get these permits by yourself, and you cannot drive your own car on most permit routes.
Foreign nationals face more steps. They need a Restricted Area Permit just to enter Sikkim, and then Protected Area Permits for most of the same places, issued only through registered agencies and usually only for groups of two or more. Some places, including Nathu La, are closed to foreigners. Everything below is the rule as we understand it for 2025–26. It changes, sometimes at short notice, so check current status before you travel.
Who needs what, place by place
This is a summary for planning. Your operator will confirm the details, and a closure for snow, landslides or army reasons overrides any permit.
| Place | Indian nationals | Foreign nationals | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gangtok, Rumtek, Pakyong, Aritar | No permit | Restricted Area Permit (RAP) | RAP is free |
| Tsomgo Lake and Baba Mandir | Permit via registered operator | Protected Area Permit, group of 2+, via agency | Apply a day ahead |
| Nathu La | Permit via registered operator | Not allowed | Commonly closed Mon and Tue |
| Silk Route: Zuluk, Gnathang, Kupup | Permit, issued at Rongli | Rules have varied; agency only | Homestays often arrange it |
| North Sikkim: Lachung, Yumthang | Permit via registered operator | PAP, group of 2+, via agency | Long closures since 2023 |
| North Sikkim: Lachen, Gurudongmar | Permit via registered operator | Gurudongmar off-limits | Long closures since 2023 |
Tsomgo Lake and Baba Mandir
Tsomgo, also called Changu, is a glacial lake at 3,753 m, about 38–40 km from Gangtok on the road to Nathu La. Indian visitors need a permit, which registered tour operators and taxi unions in Gangtok arrange with your vehicle. Give them a photocopy of a government photo ID, such as an Aadhaar card, voter ID, passport or driving licence, and two passport-size photos, ideally the afternoon before. Many operators say PAN cards are not accepted, so bring another ID. Children need ID too, a school ID or birth certificate.
The trip is usually sold as Tsomgo and Baba Mandir, the shrine to the soldier Harbhajan Singh further along the road. A shared seat costs about ₹800–1,200 and a reserved SUV ₹4,000–5,500, with the permit included. Foreign nationals can visit Tsomgo on a Protected Area Permit arranged by a registered agency, normally in a group of at least two. The road closes after heavy snow, and no permits are issued while it is shut.
Book with a registered tour desk or taxi union counter, not a stranger on the street, and get a written note of what the price includes: permit, vehicle, driver, Baba Mandir, and whether you get a refund if the road closes before you leave. Operators near MG Marg and on Paljor Stadium Road handle most of these trips, and comparing two or three quotes takes ten minutes.
A local planner turns it into a route for your dates.
Nathu La: Indians only
Nathu La, at 4,310 m and about 56 km from Gangtok, is a pass on the India–China border, one of the old trade gates to Tibet's Chumbi valley. It reopened to limited border trade in 2006. Indian nationals can visit with a permit arranged through a registered operator, usually a day in advance, with the same photo ID and photos as for Tsomgo. It is generally added to the Tsomgo trip for an extra cost; a reserved SUV for all three stops costs about ₹5,500–7,500.
Nathu La is commonly reported closed to tourists on Mondays and Tuesdays, and it shuts after snow and for army reasons, sometimes at short notice. Permit numbers can be limited per day in busy weeks, so book early in October and May. Foreign nationals are not allowed. Photography rules at the border are set by the army; follow the soldiers' instructions. The altitude is high for a day trip from 1,650 m, so take it slowly and turn back if anyone feels unwell.
Children, older travellers and anyone with heart or lung conditions should take medical advice before going to Nathu La, and pregnant women are usually advised not to go so high. Trips leave early in the morning and return by mid-afternoon.
The Silk Route through Zuluk
The Silk Route, the old mule road from Rongli up through Lingtam, Padamchen, Zuluk, Gnathang and Kupup, passes through army areas and needs a permit. For Indians it is issued at Rongli, the market town at the foot of the climb. Most travellers let their Gangtok driver or their Zuluk homestay arrange it in advance, using scanned copies of photo ID and photos; you then collect it, or the driver does, as you pass through Rongli. If you plan to stay overnight in Zuluk or Gnathang, the permit must show your stay.
Whether vehicles may continue from Kupup past Baba Mandir to Tsomgo and Gangtok, making a loop, depends on the permit and army rules of the season. Some trips are allowed, some not. Access for foreigners to the Silk Route has changed several times over the years and has sometimes been closed; ask a registered Gangtok agency well ahead. Snow can close the high section between Zuluk and Kupup for days from December to March.
North Sikkim after the 2023 flood
North Sikkim, with Lachung, Yumthang, Lachen and Gurudongmar Lake, also needs permits arranged through registered operators in Gangtok, usually as a package with a vehicle, rooms and meals. Foreigners need a Protected Area Permit for a group of two or more; Lachung and Yumthang have been open to them, while Gurudongmar has been off-limits. Allow a day in Gangtok to arrange it.
The October 2023 Teesta flood destroyed bridges and long stretches of road around Chungthang, where the routes to Lachung and Lachen divide. Since then the North Sikkim roads have had long closures, with Lachung reopening before Lachen and Gurudongmar, and further monsoon damage has shut them again. NH10 below Gangtok has closed repeatedly as well. Do not book a North Sikkim trip without confirming the roads are open that week, and check current status before you travel.
Foreigners: the Restricted Area Permit
Every foreign national needs a Restricted Area Permit to enter Sikkim. It is free. Apply online for an e-RAP before you travel, or get it on arrival at the Rangpo or Melli checkposts, or at Sikkim Tourism offices, including the counter at the SNT terminus in Siliguri. You need your passport, a valid Indian visa and passport photos. The permit is usually valid for 30 days, and extensions have been possible; ask when you apply.
The RAP covers Gangtok, Rumtek, Pelling, Yuksom and most of the lower state, but not Tsomgo, the Silk Route or North Sikkim, which need the separate Protected Area Permit through an agency. Carry several photocopies of your passport, visa and RAP, and passport photos. Citizens of some countries face additional restrictions. Check current status before you travel.
- Keep 4–6 passport photos and several ID photocopies in your daypack.
- Hand documents to a registered operator, not a stranger on the street.
- Compare two or three quotes for permit tours near MG Marg.
- Keep a spare day: closures cancel permits without refund of your time.
Questions people ask
Good to know
Do Indians need a permit to visit Sikkim?
No. Indian citizens can enter Sikkim and visit Gangtok, Rumtek, Pakyong and Aritar without any permit. You do need permits for Tsomgo Lake, Nathu La, the Silk Route and North Sikkim, arranged through registered operators with photo ID and passport photos. Carry ID throughout. Check current status before you travel.
What documents do I need for the Tsomgo or Nathu La permit?
A photocopy of a government photo ID, such as Aadhaar, voter ID, passport or driving licence, and two passport-size photos per person. Many operators say PAN cards are not accepted. Children need a school ID or birth certificate. Hand them to a registered operator the afternoon before, and carry the originals on the day.
Can I get a Tsomgo permit myself?
Usually not. Permits for Tsomgo and Nathu La are issued to registered tour operators and vehicles, not to individuals, and private cars from outside Sikkim are generally not allowed on the route. Book a shared seat or a reserved SUV through a registered tour desk near MG Marg, which arranges the permit.
Which days is Nathu La closed?
Nathu La is commonly reported closed to tourists on Mondays and Tuesdays, so plan it for Wednesday to Sunday. It also closes after heavy snow and for army reasons, sometimes at short notice. Permits may be limited in busy weeks. Keep a spare day in Gangtok and check current status before you travel.
Can foreigners visit Nathu La?
No. Nathu La is open only to Indian nationals. Foreigners can usually visit Tsomgo Lake and Baba Mandir on a Protected Area Permit arranged by a registered agency, normally in a group of two or more. Other high areas have their own rules, so check current status before you travel.
Where do I get the Silk Route permit?
For Indian travellers the Silk Route permit is issued at Rongli, the market town below Zuluk. Most people let their Gangtok driver or Zuluk homestay arrange it in advance using scanned ID and photos, then collect it in Rongli on the way. Foreigners must go through a registered agency. Check current status before you travel.
Is North Sikkim open after the 2023 flood?
Partly and intermittently. The October 2023 flood destroyed roads and bridges around Chungthang, and North Sikkim has had long closures since, with Lachung reopening before Lachen and Gurudongmar, and new monsoon damage shutting roads again. Confirm with a registered operator that the roads are open the week you travel, and check current status before you travel.
How do foreigners get the Sikkim Restricted Area Permit?
The RAP is free. Apply online for an e-RAP, or get it on arrival at the Rangpo or Melli checkposts, or at Sikkim Tourism offices, including the counter at Siliguri's SNT terminus. Bring your passport, visa and photos. It is usually valid for 30 days. Check current status before you travel.
How far ahead should I arrange permits?
For Tsomgo and Nathu La, give documents to the operator the afternoon or evening before; in October and May, book two or three days ahead. For the Silk Route and North Sikkim, arrange them a few days to a week ahead through your homestay or a registered agency. Foreigners should allow extra time.