The local story
A cantonment in the mist above the Teesta
The local explanation of the name is Lepcha: tukdah, usually translated as mist, and anyone who has spent a July afternoon here will not argue. These slopes between Darjeeling and the Teesta were Lepcha and later Nepali farming country, part of the hill tract that passed from Sikkim into British hands in the middle of the nineteenth century. What changed Takdah was the army. In the early 1900s the British set up a cantonment on this spur, lower and milder than Darjeeling, and built a scatter of officers' bungalows among the trees, with wide verandahs, fireplaces and tin roofs.
The cantonment never grew into a town. Soldiers came and went, the bungalows outlasted the men they were built for, and the spur stayed a place of houses set far apart in their own gardens. Today some of those bungalows have been restored and opened to guests as heritage homestays, which is the main reason travellers find Takdah at all. Staying in one is not luxury: expect creaking wooden floors, high ceilings that take time to warm and a dining room where the family serves dal, local greens and chicken curry. It is, though, one of the cheaper ways in these hills to sleep in a house built for the Raj.
Two other stories run through Takdah. One is tea. The Rungli Rungliot garden lies on the slopes below, and the local story is that its name means 'thus far and no further'; ask in the village and you will hear it told. Gielle tea estate is close by too. The other story is flowers. The government orchid centre keeps nurseries of hill orchids, and from February to April its sheds are at their best. Between the tea and the orchids lives a village of farmers, garden workers and homestay families, with oranges ripening on the slopes in the winter sun.



