Culture and history · Gnathang
The 1888 memorials around Gnathang
In 1888 British forces fought Tibetan troops at Lingtu and Gnathang on this road. Memorials around Gnathang and in the nearby Tukla valley recall the soldiers who died. A quiet, short stop that explains why this valley matters to the history of the Sikkim–Tibet border.
In the 1880s Tibetan troops built a fort at Lingtu, on the trade road below Gnathang, inside territory the British regarded as Sikkim. In March 1888 a British force attacked and took Lingtu. On 22 May 1888 Tibetan troops attacked the British position at Gnathang and were driven off, and in September the British pushed them back over Jelep La. The Anglo-Chinese Convention of 1890 then drew the Sikkim–Tibet border along the watershed and made Sikkim a British protectorate.
Memorials along the road around Gnathang and in the Tukla valley nearby commemorate soldiers of the British and Indian forces who died in that campaign. The sites are simple, often marked by plaques and kept by the army, and drivers know where to stop. Read the inscriptions, take a moment and move on, as the wind here rarely lets up.
The memorials make most sense if you know the road. This was the Kalimpong–Lhasa trade route, and the fighting of 1888 was as much about who controlled that trade as about borders. Combine the stop with the old Baba Mandir, a memorial of a much later war, and you see how long this valley has been a frontier.
Cost: Free
Questions people ask
Good to know
What happened at Gnathang in 1888?
During the British Sikkim expedition of 1888, Tibetan troops attacked the British position at Gnathang on 22 May and were driven back. Earlier, in March, the British had taken the Tibetan fort at Lingtu, and in September they pushed over Jelep La. The 1890 convention then fixed the Sikkim–Tibet border.
Where is the Tukla valley memorial?
The Tukla valley lies close to Gnathang on the Silk Route, and a memorial there recalls soldiers who died in the 1888 fighting. Drivers on the Zuluk–Gnathang–Kupup road know it and stop on request. It is in an army area, so follow any instructions about photography.
Is the memorial stop worth it?
Yes, if you are interested in history. It is short, usually 15–30 minutes, and on your way. It explains why this valley mattered: the fighting of 1888 decided the Sikkim–Tibet border along the watershed and opened the trade road over Jelep La to British control.
Also in Gnathang
More things to do
Culture and history · OvernightA night in the Gnathang valleyGnathang · ₹1,200–2,000 pp with dinner and breakfa…
Culture and history · 30–45 minutesThe old Baba Mandir bunker shrineGnathang · Free · offerings optional
Culture and history · 1–1.5 hours on footYak pastures and the village monasteryGnathang · Free · donation welcome