Culture and history · Gnathang
The old Baba Mandir bunker shrine
On the Gnathang side of the ridge stands the original shrine of Sepoy Harbhajan Singh, a converted bunker kept by the army. It is smaller and quieter than the newer Baba Mandir on the Nathu La road, and many soldiers regard it as the true shrine.
Harbhajan Singh, a soldier of the Punjab Regiment, died near Nathu La on 4 October 1968. Army tradition holds that his spirit went on guarding the border, warning soldiers of danger in dreams. His first shrine was set up in a bunker on this side of the ridge, in the high country between Gnathang and Kupup, and soldiers have kept it ever since. In 1982 the army built a larger shrine on the main Nathu La road, easier for visitors to reach; this one became the old Baba Mandir.
The old shrine is reached by steps from the road. Inside are photographs, offerings and the simple furnishings of a soldier's quarters. Soldiers on duty look after it and may tell the story. As at the new shrine, visitors leave bottles of water to be blessed. Treat it as a place of worship: remove shoes, cover your head if asked, keep quiet and do not photograph where signs say not to.
The climb to the shrine is short but steep at this height, so take it slowly. Combine it with the 1888 memorials and the Elephant Lake viewpoint at Kupup on the same morning. If the weather closes in, as it often does by early afternoon, head back to Gnathang or down to Zuluk rather than waiting for the cloud to clear.
Cost: Free · offerings optional
Questions people ask
Good to know
Where is the old Baba Mandir?
The old Baba Mandir is on the Silk Route side of the ridge, between Gnathang and Kupup, reached by steps from the road. It is the original bunker shrine of Sepoy Harbhajan Singh. The newer, larger shrine, built in 1982, stands on the main Gangtok–Nathu La road near Tsomgo.
Do we need a separate permit for the old Baba Mandir?
No separate permit is usually needed; the Silk Route permit that covers Zuluk, Gnathang and Kupup normally covers the old shrine on the same road. Rules can change, so confirm with your operator and check current status before you travel.
Which Baba Mandir should we visit?
If you are on the Silk Route, the old Baba Mandir near Gnathang is on your way and quieter. If you are on the Gangtok–Nathu La day trip, you will see the new one. Both are kept by the army and treated with equal respect, and some travellers on the loop see both.
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