DarjeelingHIMALAYAS

Culture and history · Gnathang

Yak pastures and the village monastery

A slow walk from the homestays across the valley floor, past grazing yaks, chhurpi cheese drying on roofs and strings of prayer flags, to Gnathang's small monastery. It shows the village behind the Silk Route: a herding community of 13 households at nearly 4,000 m.

Time1–1.5 hours on foot CostFree · donation welcome Altitude3,900m
Yak pastures and the village monastery
Photo: Rangan Datta Wiki · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Gnathang is a herding village. Families keep yaks and yak-cattle crosses, which graze the valley floor and the slopes above in the warmer months and are taken lower when deep snow comes. From the homestays a path and the road lead across the valley, past stone walls, small streams and the animals themselves. In season you may see chhurpi, the hard yak-milk cheese, drying in strings near the houses, and butter being churned.

The small monastery sits among prayer flags on the valley floor. It is a village gompa, not a grand monastery, and is often locked when no caretaker is around. If it is open, step in quietly, take off your shoes and leave a small donation. If not, walk round it clockwise as the villagers do. Ask your homestay about the monastery's story; families here will know it better than any book.

Walk slowly. At about 3,900 m even flat ground leaves you breathless, and an hour out and back is plenty. Give yaks plenty of room, especially mothers with calves, and never walk between a herder and the animals. Ask before photographing people or houses. The best light is early morning, when frost lies on the grass and the yaks are just moving out.

Cost: Free · donation welcome

Questions people ask

Good to know

Are yaks at Gnathang safe to approach?

Yaks are domestic but large and can be nervous, especially mothers with calves. Keep at least several metres away, do not walk between a herder and the animals, and never feed them. If a yak lowers its head or turns towards you, back away slowly.

Can we buy chhurpi at Gnathang?

Sometimes. Families who keep yaks make chhurpi, the hard dried cheese, and may sell a few strings if they have some to spare. Ask your homestay rather than knocking on doors. Prices are small, and it is a good, chewy snack for the road down.

Is the Gnathang monastery open to visitors?

Visitors are welcome when the caretaker is there, but the village monastery is often locked. Ask your homestay who keeps the key. If it is closed, walk round it clockwise. Remove shoes and keep quiet inside, and leave a small donation if you enter.

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