DarjeelingHIMALAYAS

Food · Thangu

Tea and Maggi at 3,900 m before dawn

Every Gurudongmar vehicle pulls into Thangu around 5–6 am. Step into a tea house, sit by the stove, eat a hot bowl of Maggi with egg, drink sweet tea and use the toilet. It is also the moment to see who in your group is struggling.

Time30 minutes Cost₹80–200 Altitude3,900m
Tea and Maggi at 3,900 m before dawn
Photo: Tarunsamanta · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The tea houses of Thangu exist for the Gurudongmar run. Before dawn their windows are lit, stoves are going and families from Lachen and Thangu serve tea, coffee, Maggi, eggs and bread to a stream of drivers and travellers. Prices are fair for the height: ₹30–60 for tea and ₹80–150 for noodles.

Eat something warm even if you are not hungry. Food helps at altitude, and the lake is still about 1,300 m higher. Drink tea or hot water and fill your flask. Use the toilet here, since facilities at the lake are basic and the plateau is not a place to wander off the road.

Use these 30 minutes for a quick check on everyone: headache, nausea, dizziness, unusual quiet. A person with mild symptoms can sometimes go on and watch closely; anyone worse should stay at Thangu or go back toward Lachen. The driver will know where to wait. Pay in cash; network is weak.

Cost: ₹80–200

Questions people ask

Good to know

Is breakfast available at Thangu?

Yes. Tea houses at Thangu open early for Gurudongmar traffic and serve tea, coffee, Maggi, eggs and bread for about ₹30–150 per item. Some homestays in Lachen pack breakfast too. Eat something warm here even if you have little appetite.

Are there toilets at Thangu?

Yes, basic toilets at the tea houses and lodges, usually ₹10–20. They are the most reliable toilets on the Gurudongmar road, so use them on the way up. Facilities at the lake are limited.

Can someone wait at Thangu instead of going to Gurudongmar?

Often, yes. If someone in your group feels unwell or does not want to go higher, they can usually wait in a tea house at Thangu while the vehicle goes to the lake and back. Agree this with your driver and the tea-house owner, and pay for what they eat and drink.

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