Viewpoints · Thangu
Watching the treeline on the drive down
On the drive back from Gurudongmar in daylight, the land changes from bare plateau to scrub to fir and rhododendron forest within a few kilometres of Thangu. Sit by the window and ask for a short stop where the first trees appear.
On the way up to Gurudongmar you drive in the dark and miss most of the landscape. The way down is the reward. From the lake the road crosses open plateau, then drops toward Thangu. Around and below it, the first dwarf rhododendrons and junipers appear, then taller fir and rhododendron forest toward Lachen.
This is the same change Hooker recorded in 1849 as he travelled up the Lachen valley, and it is one of the clearest treelines you can see from a road in India. In April and May the rhododendrons below Thangu may be in flower; in October and November the slopes are russet and gold.
Ask the driver for one or two short stops at safe pull-outs. Stay on the road side, away from army vehicles. Take photos facing back up the valley to show the contrast between bare hills and forest. Then let the driver get on; most tours still need to reach Lachung or Gangtok that day.
Cost: Free
Questions people ask
Good to know
Where is the treeline on the Gurudongmar road?
Roughly around and just above Thangu, at about 3,900–4,000 m. Below it you see fir, juniper and rhododendron; above it, open plateau of grass and rock. The change is easiest to see on the drive back down from the lake in daylight.
Can we stop for photographs on the way down?
Usually, at safe pull-outs, if you ask the driver politely and keep it short. Many tours drive on to Lachung or Gangtok after Gurudongmar, so time is limited. Do not stop near army camps, and never photograph military installations.
Are there rhododendrons near Thangu?
Yes, on the slopes below and around Thangu, from dwarf shrubs near the treeline to taller trees toward Lachen. They flower mainly in April and May. Higher up toward Gurudongmar the plants become low cushions and grasses.
