North Sikkim: Lachung & Lachen · trek stop

Thangu

Yak country and the last tea stop before Gurudongmar

Altitude3,900m Nights0 BestApr – May · Oct – Nov

Photo: Tarunsamanta · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

In brief

Thangu is a small high settlement about 30 km north of Lachen, at roughly 3,900 m, where Gurudongmar vehicles stop for tea before the plateau. In summer the valley is yak pasture and flower meadow. It has a few basic lodges, but most visitors pass through. Indian citizens with permits; check current status before you travel.

The local story

Summer pasture of the Lachen herders

Thangu grew as a summer settlement for Lachen's herders. When the snow melted, families drove yaks and other animals up the Lachen Chu to the meadows here and above, and brought them down again before winter, a seasonal move that shaped the open grassland you see. The Dokpas, herding families of the high pastures toward the plateau, still keep yaks in this country. Today Thangu also has an army presence and a cluster of tea houses and lodges that serve the Gurudongmar traffic, and its population is around a thousand.

Hooker came this way in 1849 on his journey up the Lachen valley toward the Kongra La, and his journals describe the rhododendron scrub giving way to bare, Tibetan-style country above the trees. The change is just as sharp now. Below Thangu you drive through forest; above it the land opens into the high, dry plateau that leads to Gurudongmar and the source streams of the Teesta.

Thangu is about 30 km north of Lachen and roughly 1,150 m higher, with an estimated population of about 1,000 people.

Wikipedia and local usage often call the area Thangu-Chopta Valley, because Chopta's meadows lie just beside it.

Above Thangu the forest ends abruptly; the road to Gurudongmar crosses treeless high plateau for the last stretch.

About Thangu

Most travellers meet Thangu in the dark, at 5 or 6 am, as their vehicle pulls in for tea on the way to Gurudongmar. A row of small tea houses and lodges lines the road, stoves going, with Maggi, eggs and tea on offer. It is a good place to check how everyone is feeling before the final climb to the lake.

In daylight, Thangu is worth a look of its own: a wide valley at roughly 3,900 m, with yak herds, wooden huts and, in June to August, meadows of primulas and other alpine flowers. Chopta Valley lies just beside it. Sleeping here without first spending a night at Lachen is not wise. Since 2023 the road has had long closures; check current status before you travel.

What to see and do

The pre-dawn tea stop

Every Gurudongmar vehicle stops here at about 5–6 am. Hot tea, Maggi, eggs and a warm stove; use the toilet here, as there are few further up. Check how everyone feels.

Yak pastures

Yaks graze the valley and slopes around Thangu for much of the year, kept by Lachen herders and Dokpa families. Watch from a distance and ask before photographing people.

Summer flower meadows

In June to August, if the road is open, the meadows around Thangu fill with primulas, poppies and other alpine flowers. Monsoon road risk is the trade-off.

Where the forest ends

Just above Thangu the trees stop and the plateau begins. On the way down from Gurudongmar in daylight, notice how suddenly the land changes.

Gateway to Chopta

Chopta Valley's meadows and frozen winter river lie beside Thangu, often added to the Gurudongmar day or done on a spare day from Lachen.

How to get there

Gurudongmar tour from Lachen: Every Gurudongmar trip passes through Thangu, about 30 km and 1.5 hours above Lachen. Tours stop here for tea on the way up and sometimes for lunch on the way down. Included in Lachen tour packages.
Reserved vehicle: With a whole vehicle and a permit that covers Thangu and Chopta, you can spend longer here on a spare day from Lachen. Agree this with your registered Gangtok operator when booking.

Where to stay

Thangu has a few basic lodges and tea-house rooms used by drivers, herders and some travellers. Rooms are simple, cold and expensive for what they are. We do not advise sleeping here unless you have already spent at least one night, preferably two, in Lachen, because Thangu is roughly 1,150 m higher. Most visitors should sleep in Lachen's homestays at about ₹1,500–2,500 per person with meals and visit Thangu by day.

Local tips

Use the tea stop to check every passenger for headache or nausea before going higher.
Buy hot water or tea here and carry it in a flask to the lake.
Do not photograph army camps or vehicles around Thangu.
Ask before photographing herders or their families.
Carry small change for tea, snacks and toilets; card payments rarely work.

02,7005,400

Altitude3,900 m

Thin air: walk slowly, drink water and sleep lower if you get a headache.

What it costs here

Tea or coffee₹30–60

Maggi with egg₹80–150

Basic lodge room, if you stay₹1,500–3,000 a room (indicative)

Toilet at a tea house₹10–20

Portable oxygen can₹500–900

Indicative, 2025–26. Check current status before you travel.

Best months: Apr – May · Oct – Nov
Nights we suggest: 0 (stop on the Gurudongmar day)
From Lachen: ≈ 30 km · 1.5 h
Altitude: ≈ 3,900 m
Known for: Gurudongmar tea stop, yak pastures, summer flowers
Network: Very limited

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

BestGoodAvoid or closed

Things to do

Four things to do in Thangu

Food · 30 minutesTea and Maggi at 3,900 m before dawnThangu · ₹80–200

Culture and history · 1 hourWatching the yak herds of ThanguThangu · Free · ask before photographs

Wildlife and birds · 1–2 hoursAlpine flowers around Thangu in summerThangu · Free

Viewpoints · 1.5 hoursWatching the treeline on the drive downThangu · Free

On the map

Thangu and its neighbours

Drawn by Darjeeling Himalayas from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Close by

Nearby places

village2,750 m Lachen The big pass: base for Gurudongmar and a Dzumsa village

valley4,000 m Chopta Valley A frozen river in winter and a flower meadow in summer

lake5,183 m Gurudongmar Lake A sacred lake about 5 km from the Tibetan border

Ways to travel

Snow and high passes Wildlife and birds Photography

Questions people ask

Questions about Thangu

How far is Thangu from Lachen?

Thangu is about 30 km north of Lachen, roughly 1.5 hours by road, and about 35–38 km below Gurudongmar Lake. Every Gurudongmar tour passes through it, usually stopping for tea at 5–6 am on the way up.

What is the altitude of Thangu?

Roughly 3,900 m, about 1,150 m higher than Lachen. Figures vary slightly by source. At this height many visitors notice breathlessness when walking, and some get headaches, especially if they came up from Gangtok the day before.

Can I stay overnight in Thangu?

There are a few basic lodges, but we do not recommend sleeping here unless you have already spent one or two nights in Lachen. Sleeping at about 3,900 m without acclimatisation increases the risk of altitude sickness. Permits and road rules may also limit night halts.

Is Thangu worth a visit on its own?

As a short stop, yes: tea, yaks and the change from forest to plateau. A longer visit makes sense in summer for the flowers, or combined with Chopta Valley on a spare day from Lachen. For most travellers it is part of the Gurudongmar morning.

Do I need a permit for Thangu?

Yes. Thangu is beyond Lachen in the restricted part of North Sikkim and is covered by the North Sikkim permit arranged by your registered Gangtok operator. Foreign nationals' access has varied; ask your agent and check current status before you travel.

What is the weather in Thangu?

Cold year-round. Winter nights fall well below −10 °C and snow often covers the valley from December to March. Summer days can be mild in the sun but nights stay near freezing. Wind picks up after midday. Always carry a warm jacket.

Is Thangu the same as Chopta Valley?

No, but they are next to each other and often named together as Thangu-Chopta. Thangu is the settlement on the Gurudongmar road; Chopta is the meadow valley close by, known for its frozen river in winter and flowers in summer.

Can I buy food in Thangu?

Yes. Tea houses sell tea, coffee, Maggi, eggs and bread from early morning, and some serve simple rice meals at lunch. Expect ₹30–200 per item. Carry cash in small notes, as digital payments often fail.

Is Thangu open in winter?

The settlement is lived in, but the road beyond Lachen can be closed by snow for days in winter, and Gurudongmar tours are suspended when it is. Plan with flexible dates in December to February and check current status before you travel.