The local story
Guras country on the Singalila ridge
Barsey sits on the Singalila range, the long ridge that runs south from Kanchenjunga and forms Sikkim's border with Nepal before it drops towards West Bengal at Phalut and Sandakphu. Nepali speakers call the rhododendron guras, and up here it is not a garden shrub but the forest itself: real trees with mossy trunks that turn whole slopes red, pink and white between March and May. Families in the villages below, Hilley, Okhrey and Sombaria, cut these forests for firewood and grazed cattle in them for generations, which is part of the reason the state decided to protect them.
The outside world first learned about Sikkim's rhododendrons from Joseph Dalton Hooker, the British botanist who travelled through east Nepal and Sikkim in 1848 and 1849. He sent seeds and drawings back to Kew and published The Rhododendrons of Sikkim-Himalaya between 1849 and 1851, which set off a fashion for these plants in Victorian gardens. Among the species he described was Rhododendron niveum, the lilac-flowered tree that is now Sikkim's state tree. Hooker never wrote about Barsey by that name, but the forest you walk through from Hilley is the kind of forest he was describing.
In the late 1990s Sikkim set aside about 104 km² of this ridge as the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary, climbing from about 2,200 m to above 4,100 m. A simple trekkers' hut called Guras Kunj, roughly "rhododendron grove", stands near the top of the walk, and the villages below opened homestays. The result is one of the easiest places in Sikkim to stand inside a high rhododendron forest without a long trek: a 4 km path, a hut, and Kanchenjunga across the valley on a clear morning.



