Forest walk to the Rabdentse ruins

Rabdentse became the capital in 1670, when Tensung Namgyal, the second Chogyal, moved the court here from Yuksom. The site was chosen for its position on a spur with long views and steep ground on several sides. The kings ruled from it for close to 150 years, until raids by the Gorkha armies from Nepal in the late 18th and early 19th centuries made it unsafe. In 1814 the capital moved east to Tumlong, and the forest slowly closed over the palace terraces.

The path starts from a gate on the main road near the Pemayangtse turn and runs through mixed forest for roughly 15–25 minutes, mostly level with some steps. Birdsong is the main sound here in the early hours. You come out at a series of stone enclosures, walls and chortens on different levels. It is a protected monument, so do not climb on the walls. On a clear morning the snow peaks rise behind the ruins, and the photograph explains why kings chose this spur.

There are few signs, so bring the story with you. Imagine a court of lamas, nobles and Lepcha and Bhutia officials, with petitioners walking in from villages across the valley. Spend half an hour sitting on the upper level, then walk back the same way. If you started at Pemayangtse, you can be back in Pelling for a late breakfast. Carry water, wear shoes with grip after rain and watch for leeches from June to September.

Cost: Free or a small fee · check at the gate