DarjeelingHIMALAYAS

Food · Samsing

Gundruk, squash and a Samsing homestay meal

Samsing's Nepali-speaking homestay families cook hill food: rice, dal, squash, local greens, fermented gundruk, chicken curry and hot pickles. Ask to sit in the kitchen while dinner is made; it is the best cooking class in the Dooars.

Time1–2 hours CostIncluded in homestay rates Altitude900m
Gundruk, squash and a Samsing homestay meal
Photo: Abhijit Kar Gupta · CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons

Hill kitchens in Samsing are built around the rice pot and what grows in the garden. Iskus (chayote squash) appears in almost every meal, along with mustard greens, beans and potatoes. Gundruk, fermented and dried leafy greens, goes into a sour soup in winter. Pickles of radish, chilli and tomato add heat, and dalle chillies, small and fierce, sit on the side.

Meat is usually chicken or pork, and in some homes there will be dried meat or local cheese. Breakfast may bring sel roti, a ring-shaped fried rice bread, especially around festivals. Tea comes strong and milky, and some families will make a glass of black garden tea if you ask.

Tell your hosts early if you are vegetarian or avoid chillies; they will adjust. Ask if you can watch or help in the kitchen, and ask about the names of dishes; families are usually proud to explain.

Cost: Included in homestay rates

Questions people ask

Good to know

What is gundruk?

Gundruk is a fermented and dried leafy green, usually from mustard, radish or cauliflower leaves, made in Nepali households of the Himalaya. It is cooked into a sour soup or pickle, especially in winter. It tastes tangy and earthy and goes well with rice.

Is homestay food in Samsing spicy?

Pickles and chilli sauces can be very hot, especially dalle chillies, but main dishes are moderate. Tell your hosts how much heat you like; they are used to guests from the plains and abroad. Children's meals can be made without chilli.

Are meals included in Samsing homestays?

Most homestays include dinner and breakfast in their per-person rate, about ₹1,200–1,800 in 2025–26. Lunch is extra, about ₹150–250, and should be ordered in the morning. Confirm what is included when you book.

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