Food · Mangan
A walk through a large cardamom farm
Large cardamom, the smoky black pod of Indian kitchens, grows under shade trees on the slopes around Mangan. Ask locally for a farmer who will walk you through the plants and, from September to November, show you the harvest and the wood-fired drying kilns.
Large cardamom is not the green cardamom of Kerala. It is a bigger, darker, smoky pod from a tall herb that grows in moist, shaded ground under trees such as alder. Sikkim has long been one of the world's main growers, and Mangan district calls itself the large cardamom capital. Many Lepcha and Nepali families around Mangan and Dzongu depend on it.
The pods grow at the base of the plant, close to the ground. Harvest starts in late August and runs through autumn. Farmers cut the clusters, separate the pods and dry them over wood fires in small kilns called bhattis. The smoke gives the spice its flavour. A good farmer can tell you the grade of a pod by look and smell.
There are no ticketed tours. Ask your hotel, a shop in the bazaar or a Dzongu homestay to introduce you to a farmer, and offer a tip of ₹200–300 for their time. Wear shoes with grip; the slopes are steep and muddy. Leeches are common in the wet season, so tuck trousers into socks.
Cost: Free to ₹300 tip for a local guide
Questions people ask
Good to know
What is large cardamom?
Large cardamom, also called black cardamom, is the large, dark, smoky pod of Amomum subulatum. It grows under shade trees in the eastern Himalaya, and Sikkim is one of its main growing areas. It is used in garam masala, biryani and meat dishes, unlike the smaller green cardamom used in sweets and tea.
When is cardamom harvested in Mangan?
Mostly from late August through October and into November, depending on altitude. Lower farms harvest earlier. September to November is the best time to see picking and the wood-fired drying kilns. Outside the season you can still see the plants and the bhattis.
Can I buy cardamom directly from farmers?
Sometimes, especially in the harvest season, though most farmers sell to traders. Shops in Mangan bazaar sell good-quality pods. Prices follow the market and swing a lot year to year; ask two or three shops before buying.
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