Sandakphu & the Singalila Ridge · trek stop

Kalipokhri

कालीपोखरी

The black pond on the border, an hour below Sandakphu

Altitude3,186m Nights1 BestMar – Apr · Oct – Dec

Photo: Adwartising · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

In brief

Kalipokhri, 'black pond' in Nepali, is a hamlet at about 3,186 m built around a small dark lake hung with prayer flags, right on the India–Nepal border. It is the usual second night of the Sandakphu trek, 6 km and 2–3 hours below the summit, with family lodges and a quieter feel than Sandakphu.

The local story

A dark pond the ridge treats as sacred

Kali means black and pokhri means pond, and the name is literal: the small lake beside the trail has peaty, dark water that looks black under cloud. Buddhists and Hindus along the ridge treat it as sacred, and prayer flags ring its banks. Local lore holds that the water never freezes completely even when snow lies all around; we have not seen this tested, so treat it as the village's story rather than a measured fact.

The hamlet that grew around the pond is one of the larger settlements on the upper ridge, with lodges on both sides of a border that runs along the track. Above it, the trail climbs to Bikheybhanjang, the 'poison pass', named in Nepali for the aconite that grows on these slopes. The same plant is behind Sandakphu's Lepcha name, the 'height of the poisonous plant', and old accounts say herders muzzled their animals to cross this stretch safely.

Kalipokhri means 'black pond' in Nepali; the dark colour comes from peaty water and the shade of the surrounding slopes.

Bikheybhanjang, above Kalipokhri, takes its name from bikh, Nepali for poison, after the aconite plants of these high slopes.

Wikipedia notes Kalipokhri as one of the larger settlements inside the Singalila trekking corridor, grown up around the lake of the same name.

About Kalipokhri

After the long forest climb from Gairibas, the trail tops out onto open slopes and you see the pond first: a small, dark oval ringed with prayer flags, with low stone lodges around it and the bare ridge of Sandakphu rising beyond. Kalipokhri is higher than Tumling and colder, and on autumn evenings frost settles on the roofs before dinner.

Many trekkers sleep here rather than push on to Sandakphu the same day. It is a good choice: the climb from Gairibas is already 3–4 hours, the lodges are friendly and cheaper than the summit's, and you can walk the last 6 km in the early morning to reach Sandakphu in time to see the mountains before the cloud rises.

What to see and do

The black pond

A small dark lake ringed with prayer flags sits right beside the trail. Walk around it clockwise as local people do, look at the reflections on still mornings and notice how dark the water stays even under a blue sky.

A calmer night below the summit

Kalipokhri's lodges are quieter and a little cheaper than Sandakphu's, and sleeping here breaks the hardest climbing day. You reach Sandakphu the next morning fresh, with the mountains often clear.

The poison pass

The trail to Sandakphu passes Bikheybhanjang, the 'poison pass', named after the aconite plants of these slopes. It is the start of the final steep climb, and a reminder of how this ridge got its names.

Frosty autumn mornings

From November, frost covers the grass and roofs at dawn and ice rims the pond. The morning light on the ridge toward Sandakphu is clean and golden. Dress warmly before stepping out.

Stars over the border

With little light pollution and dry autumn air, Kalipokhri's night sky is excellent. Step out after dinner for the Milky Way, then go back to the stove before your toes freeze.

How to get there

On foot from Gairibas: Climb via Kaiyakatta: about 6 km and 3–4 hours, gaining roughly 550 m on forest paths and the cobbled track. A licensed guide is required.
On foot from Sandakphu: Coming down from Sandakphu on the return route, Kalipokhri is about 6 km and 2 hours below the summit.
Land Rover: The Sandakphu track passes through Kalipokhri, about 3–3.5 hours from Maneybhanjan. Drops can be arranged with the owners' association.

Where to stay

Kalipokhri has several small family lodges around the pond and along the track, on both sides of the border. Rooms are basic: dorm beds and twin rooms with quilts, shared toilets, a dining room with a stove and dal-bhat dinners. Expect ₹400–700 for a bed in a shared room or ₹1,500–2,500 for a private twin, with meals extra. Book ahead in October and April through your guide.

Local tips

Sleep at Kalipokhri rather than Sandakphu if you climbed from Gairibas the same day; altitude is easier on two steps.
Walk clockwise around the pond and do not throw anything into the water; it is treated as sacred.
Leave for Sandakphu by 6.30 am to reach the top before the cloud rises.
Ask for an extra blanket in November to February; nights go well below freezing.
Carry Indian rupees in small notes; lodges on the Nepal side accept them.

02,7005,400

Altitude3,186 m

Thin air: walk slowly, drink water and sleep lower if you get a headache.

What it costs here

Dorm or shared lodge bed₹400–700 pp

Private twin room₹1,500–2,500 a room

Dal-bhat dinner₹250–350

Breakfast₹150–250

Hot water bucket₹80–120

Tea₹30–60

Indicative, 2025–26. Check current status before you travel.

Best months: Oct – Dec · Mar – May
Nights we suggest: 1
From Gairibas: ≈ 6 km · 3–4 h on foot
Altitude: ≈ 3,186 m
Known for: Black pond, prayer flags, border lodges
Network: Patchy, mostly Nepali

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

BestGoodAvoid or closed

Things to do

Four things to do in Kalipokhri

Culture and history · 30 minutesWalk around the black pond at dawnKalipokhri · Free

Treks and walks · 2–3 hoursClimb through the poison pass to SandakphuKalipokhri · Included in your guide fee

Food · 1.5 hoursA woodstove dinner in a border lodgeKalipokhri · ₹250–400 a meal

Viewpoints · 30–45 minutesStargazing over the border at KalipokhriKalipokhri · Free

On the map

Kalipokhri and its neighbours

Drawn by Darjeeling Himalayas from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Trips that stop here

Go to Kalipokhri on a ticket

Shoestring Singalila5 nights · On foot The classic Sandakphu trek on a shoestring Maneybhanjan · Tumling · Kalipokhri · Sandakphu ₹12,500per person
about ₹2,100 a day

Comfort Singalila5 nights · Mixed Sandakphu trek with a porter and private rooms Dhotrey · Tumling · Kalipokhri · Sandakphu ₹28,000per person
about ₹4,650 a day

Value Singalila7 nights · On foot Sandakphu and Phalut from Dhotrey Dhotrey · Tonglu · Kalipokhri · Sandakphu ₹25,500per person
about ₹3,200 a day

Value Singalila4 nights · Mixed Sandakphu ridge and river trek Tumling · Kalipokhri · Sandakphu · Srikhola ₹17,000per person
about ₹3,400 a day

Comfort Singalila4 nights · Mixed Two dawns on Sandakphu by Land Rover Tumling · Sandakphu · Kalipokhri ₹26,500per person
about ₹5,300 a day

Shoestring Singalila8 nights · On foot The full Singalila Ridge on a shoestring Maneybhanjan · Tumling · Kalipokhri · Sandakphu ₹19,000per person
about ₹2,100 a day

Close by

Nearby places

viewpoint3,636 m Sandakphu West Bengal's highest point, with Everest on the skyline

forest village2,621 m Gairibas A forest hollow on the ridge where red pandas live

trek stop2,970 m Tumling A Nepali hamlet with the first big Kanchenjunga dawn

Ways to travel

Treks and walks Kanchenjunga views Photography Solo and backpacking

Questions people ask

Questions about Kalipokhri

What does Kalipokhri mean?

Kalipokhri means 'black pond' in Nepali, after the small dark lake beside the trail. The pond is treated as sacred and ringed with prayer flags. The hamlet around it is one of the main overnight stops below Sandakphu.

Is Kalipokhri in India or Nepal?

It sits right on the border. Some lodges are on the Nepal side and some on the Indian side of the track. You do not pass a checkpoint, but carry ID; SSB and Nepal police may check.

How far is Kalipokhri from Sandakphu?

About 6 km, usually 2–3 hours on foot with roughly 450 m of climbing, most of it after Bikheybhanjang. By Land Rover it takes about 40 minutes to an hour.

Should I sleep at Kalipokhri or Sandakphu?

If you walked up from Tumling via Gairibas the same day, sleep at Kalipokhri. It splits the climbing, helps acclimatisation and puts you on Sandakphu early the next morning for clear views. Lodges here are also a little cheaper.

What is the altitude of Kalipokhri?

About 3,186 m. Mild altitude symptoms such as headache or poor sleep are common. Drink water, eat well and avoid alcohol. If you feel very unwell, do not continue to Sandakphu; descend.

Is there network at Kalipokhri?

Patchy, and mostly Nepali networks. Turn off data roaming to avoid charges. Some lodges have Wi-Fi when the power is on. Expect to be offline for much of the evening.

Can Land Rovers reach Kalipokhri?

Yes, the Sandakphu track passes through Kalipokhri, about 3–3.5 hours from Maneybhanjan. Some Land Rover trips stop here for a night instead of Sandakphu.

Is Kalipokhri cold in winter?

Very. December to February brings nights well below freezing and snow is common in January and February. Lodges stay open, but you need warm clothing and a good sleeping bag or extra quilts.

Are there toilets and hot water at Kalipokhri?

Toilets are basic and usually shared, often outside the main building. Hot water comes in buckets for ₹80–120. Washing is quick in the cold; most trekkers save a proper wash for Rimbik or Darjeeling.