DarjeelingHIMALAYAS
Gairibas

Sandakphu & the Singalila Ridge · forest village

Gairibas

A forest hollow on the ridge where red pandas live

Altitude2,621m Nights0–1 BestMar – Apr · Oct – Nov

Photo: Sudeepdino008 · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

In brief

Gairibas is a small clearing at 2,621 m in the deepest dip of the Singalila Ridge, between Tumling and Kalipokhri. Surrounded by oak, rhododendron and bamboo forest inside Singalila National Park, it is the best stretch of the trek for red pandas and birds, with a trekkers' hut, an SSB camp and tea shops.

The local story

The low camp in the hollow

The name is usually read as Nepali: gairi for a low, sunken place and bas for a dwelling or halt, a fair description of a clearing that sits about 350 m below Tumling and 550 m below Kalipokhri. For herders driving animals along the ridge, it was the sheltered stop between two high, windy stretches. Today the clearing holds a government trekkers' hut, a small SSB camp guarding the border and a few tea shops, and almost nothing else.

What surrounds it is the reason the national park exists. The forests between Jaubari and Kaiyakatta, mixed oak, rhododendron, magnolia and thick ringal bamboo, are prime red panda habitat. Singalila was declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1986 and a national park in 1992, and the Darjeeling zoo's red panda breeding programme has released captive-bred animals into these forests. Guides from Maneybhanjan know the trees where pandas have been seen.

Gairibas at about 2,621 m is the lowest point on the ridge trail between Tumling and Sandakphu, so you descend about 350 m before the big climb to Kalipokhri.
The trail from Tumling to Gairibas passes through Jaubari, a Nepali village at about 2,750 m in Ilam district.
The Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park in Darjeeling runs a red panda breeding programme and has released captive-bred red pandas into Singalila National Park.

About Gairibas

Gairibas feels different from the rest of the ridge. After the open grass and wide views of Tumling, the trail drops through Jaubari into thick forest, and the clearing at the bottom is quiet, damp and enclosed by trees. Most trekkers stop only for tea and noodles before the steep climb to Kaiyakatta and Kalipokhri. That is a missed chance.

Spend a night here, or at least an early morning, and Gairibas becomes the wildlife stop of the trek. Red pandas feed on bamboo shoots and leaves in these forests; Himalayan black bears, barking deer and pheasants also live here. The birding is excellent in April and May. The trekkers' hut is basic, but you are in the middle of the national park with few people around.

What to see and do

Red panda forest

The oak, rhododendron and bamboo forest around Gairibas is one of the best places in Singalila National Park for red pandas. Sightings are never guaranteed, but early mornings in quiet months, with a guide who knows the trees, give you a real chance.

The Jaubari descent

From Tumling the trail crosses into Nepal and drops through Jaubari village, with lodges and fields, before plunging into forest down to Gairibas. It is a pleasant 2.5–3 hours, mostly downhill, with good views of the ridge ahead.

Birds of the mid forest

Gairibas lies in the band of forest where many of Singalila's birds overlap: laughingthrushes, minivets, sunbirds, flycatchers and pheasants. In April and May dawn chorus here is loud enough to wake you before your alarm.

The climb to Kaiyakatta

Leaving Gairibas, the trail climbs steeply through forest to Kaiyakatta, a hamlet with a tea shop, and on to Kalipokhri. It gains about 550 m in 6 km. Take it steadily; it is the second-hardest climb of the trek.

A quiet night inside the park

Few trekkers sleep at Gairibas, so a night in the trekkers' hut puts you in the national park when the day traffic has gone. Evenings are still; mornings bring birds, mist and, sometimes, a panda.

How to get there

On foot from Tumling
Walk west into Nepal through Jaubari and down through forest: about 7 km and 2.5–3 hours, mostly descending. This is the main trekking route. A licensed guide is required throughout the park.
On foot via Tonglu
A route on the Indian side runs from Tonglu along the ridge to Gairibas, a little longer and quieter. Ask your guide whether it is in use and in good condition.
Land Rover
The Sandakphu track passes through Gairibas, about 2.5–3 hours from Maneybhanjan. Land Rovers stop for tea, and a drop here can be arranged with the owners' association.

Where to stay

Gairibas has a GTA trekkers' hut with dorm beds and blankets, very basic toilets and simple meals cooked on request, and one or two small tea-shop lodges. It is the most basic overnight on the trek, and you should check that the hut is open before planning to sleep here. Most trekkers sleep at Tumling the night before and Kalipokhri the night after, passing Gairibas around midday.

Local tips

  • For red pandas, sleep at Gairibas or start from Tumling at first light and walk the forest slowly.
  • Keep voices low in the forest; pandas and pheasants move off at the first noise.
  • Fill water bottles at Gairibas before the long climb to Kaiyakatta and Kalipokhri.
  • Carry ID; there is an SSB camp at Gairibas and you have just walked through Nepal.
  • In April and May watch for leeches if it has rained; tuck trousers into socks.

On the map

Gairibas and its neighbours

Map of Gairibas, Tumling, Kalipokhri, TongluIndiaNepalGairibas1GairibasTumling2TumlingKalipokhri3KalipokhriTonglu4Tonglu10 kmN
  1. 1Gairibas
  2. 2Tumling
  3. 3Kalipokhri
  4. 4Tonglu
Drawn by Darjeeling Himalayas from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Close by

Nearby places

Tumling
trek stop2,970 m Tumling A Nepali hamlet with the first big Kanchenjunga dawn
Kalipokhri
trek stop3,186 m Kalipokhriकालीपोखरी The black pond on the border, an hour below Sandakphu
Tonglu
viewpoint3,070 m Tonglu Hooker's rhododendron hill and an open Indian summit

Ways to travel

Questions people ask

Questions about Gairibas

Where is Gairibas on the Sandakphu trek?

Gairibas lies between Tumling and Kalipokhri, in a forest dip at about 2,621 m. Coming from Tumling via Jaubari you descend to it; leaving, you climb steeply to Kaiyakatta and Kalipokhri. It is usually a lunch stop on day two.

Can I stay overnight at Gairibas?

Yes, at the basic GTA trekkers' hut or a small tea-shop lodge. It is the plainest night on the trek but the best for wildlife. Confirm the hut is open in Darjeeling or Maneybhanjan before planning to sleep there.

Is Gairibas in India?

Yes, Gairibas is on the Indian side inside Singalila National Park, with an SSB camp. You reach it after walking through Jaubari in Nepal. Carry ID for checks.

Are there red pandas at Gairibas?

Yes, the forests around Gairibas are among the best red panda habitat in Singalila National Park. Sightings are not guaranteed. Walk early and quietly with a guide who knows the area for the best chance.

How far is Gairibas from Sandakphu?

About 12–13 km via Kaiyakatta and Kalipokhri, usually 6–7 hours on foot with roughly 1,000 m of climbing. Most trekkers break it with a night at Kalipokhri.

Is there network at Gairibas?

Usually not, or only a faint Nepali signal. Tell family before you leave Tumling that you may be out of reach until Kalipokhri or Sandakphu.

Can Land Rovers reach Gairibas?

Yes, the Sandakphu track passes through Gairibas, about 2.5–3 hours from Maneybhanjan. Land Rovers often stop for tea here. A drop at Gairibas can be arranged with the owners' association.

What wildlife lives around Gairibas?

Red pandas, Himalayan black bears, barking deer, yellow-throated martens and many birds, including pheasants. Most mammals are shy and rarely seen; signs such as droppings and scratched trees are more common than sightings.

Is Gairibas good in rhododendron season?

Yes. The forest on the climb from Gairibas to Kaiyakatta is one of the best rhododendron stretches of the trek, usually flowering through April. The damp forest also has orchids and mosses in spring.

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