Sandakphu & the Singalila Ridge · viewpoint

Tonglu

Hooker's rhododendron hill and an open Indian summit

Altitude3,070m Nights1 BestMar – Apr · Oct – Dec

Photo: solarshakti Original uploader was Pradiptaray … · CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons

In brief

Tonglu is a broad grassy top at about 3,070 m on the Indian side of the Singalila Ridge, just above Tumling. It has a GTA trekkers' hut, a 360-degree view from Kanchenjunga to Darjeeling, and a forest trail down to Dhotrey that makes a fine short trek. Joseph Hooker botanised here in 1848.

The local story

Where Hooker found his rhododendrons

In 1848 the young botanist Joseph Dalton Hooker, later director of Kew Gardens, arrived in Darjeeling to collect plants of the Sikkim Himalaya. One of his first excursions was up 'Tonglo', the nearest high summit on the Singalila Ridge, through forests he described in his Himalayan Journals as dripping with moss and full of rhododendrons and magnolias. The seeds and descriptions he sent back to Britain helped start the Victorian craze for Himalayan rhododendrons in country-house gardens.

Tonglu kept that role as a first high point. The British used the ridge as a hill walk from Darjeeling, and in 1905 the Kanchenjunga expedition of Jules Jacot-Guillarmod and Aleister Crowley marched north along it. Today the summit belongs to Singalila National Park, with a government trekkers' hut now run by the Gorkhaland Territorial Administration, and an SSB post watching a border that lies a few hundred metres west.

Joseph Dalton Hooker described an excursion up 'Tonglo' from Darjeeling in his Himalayan Journals, published in 1854; it was among his first Himalayan collecting trips.

Tonglu at about 3,070 m is on the Indian side of the ridge, while Tumling, a short walk away, is in Nepal.

A direct forest trail links Tonglu with Dhotrey, about 6 km below, making a shorter way onto the ridge than walking from Maneybhanjan.

About Tonglu

Tonglu is the first place on the trek where you stand on top of something. The Land Rover track and the trail from Meghma both arrive on a wide, open summit with a trekkers' hut and a view in every direction: Kanchenjunga north, Darjeeling and the Ghoom ridge east, the Ilam hills of Nepal west, the plains haze south. On the clearest autumn days you can pick out Everest and Makalu too.

It is a quieter alternative to Tumling for the first night, and the meeting point for the short Dhotrey trail. If you want a weekend on the ridge without doing the full trek, come up from Dhotrey through the forest, sleep at Tonglu or Tumling, and go down via Meghma and Chitrey to Maneybhanjan the next day.

What to see and do

A 360-degree summit

Unlike Tumling, which looks mainly north, Tonglu's open top shows the whole circle: Kanchenjunga, the Darjeeling ridge, the Ilam hills, and on clear days Everest and Makalu. It is the best panorama before Sandakphu and only an hour beyond the first night's lodges.

Hooker's hill

Joseph Hooker climbed Tonglo in 1848 and described its moss forests and rhododendrons. In April the shrub rhododendrons and primulas still colour the upper slopes, and the forest below is full of the species he recorded.

The GTA trekkers' hut

A government trekkers' hut on the summit offers simple dorm beds at low rates. It is plain, cold and cheap, with a caretaker who cooks basic meals. Booking channels change, so ask in Darjeeling or Maneybhanjan.

The Dhotrey forest trail

A direct path drops about 500 m through oak, rhododendron and bamboo to Dhotrey, a village with homestays and a jeep road. It is the shortest way onto the ridge and a quieter alternative to the Maneybhanjan start.

Sunset over Nepal

Tonglu's western edge looks straight out over Ilam. On clear evenings the sun drops behind ridge after ridge of Nepali hills while Kanchenjunga turns pink in the north. Stay until the colour goes, then walk back with a torch.

How to get there

On foot from Maneybhanjan: Walk via Chitrey and Meghma, taking the left fork above Meghma: about 11 km and 4.5–5 hours with a climb of around 900 m. A licensed guide is required.
On foot from Dhotrey: Take a jeep from Maneybhanjan to Dhotrey (about 1 hour), then walk up the forest trail: roughly 6 km and 3–4 hours. Quieter and shadier than the main route.
Land Rover: Land Rovers on the Sandakphu track pass close to Tonglu and Tumling, about 1.5 hours from Maneybhanjan. Agree a drop with the owners' association.

Where to stay

The GTA trekkers' hut on Tonglu's summit is the only bed on the top: dorm-style rooms, thick blankets, very basic toilets and simple meals from the caretaker, at low government rates. Its condition and booking method vary, so ask in Darjeeling or at Maneybhanjan before relying on it. For more comfort, sleep in the family lodges at Tumling, 20–40 minutes away, and walk up to Tonglu for sunset or sunrise.

trekkers' hutTonglu GTA Trekkers' Hut, Tonglu Low government dorm rates, about ₹300–800 a bed (indicative)

Local tips

Confirm the trekkers' hut is open and has a caretaker before you plan to sleep there.
Carry a warm layer even in April; wind on the open summit makes it feel 5 °C colder.
Use the Dhotrey trail to go up and the main trail via Chitrey to come down for a varied loop.
Walk up from Tumling for sunrise if you slept there; the 360-degree view is worth the early start.
Do not walk the Dhotrey forest trail after dark; it is steep and easy to lose.

02,7005,400

Altitude3,070 m

Thin air: walk slowly, drink water and sleep lower if you get a headache.

What it costs here

Trekkers' hut bed≈ ₹300–800 pp (indicative)

Lodge room at nearby Tumling₹1,500–2,800 a room

Dal-bhat dinner₹200–300

Tea and biscuits₹50–80

Shared jeep Maneybhanjan to Dhotrey≈ ₹80–150 a seat

Guide share for a pair≈ ₹750–1,000 pp a day

Indicative, 2025–26. Check current status before you travel.

Best months: Oct – Dec · Mar – May
Nights we suggest: 1
From Maneybhanjan: ≈ 11 km · 4.5–5 h on foot
Altitude: ≈ 3,070 m
Known for: Open summit, Hooker history, Dhotrey trail
Network: Patchy Indian signal

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

BestGoodAvoid or closed

Things to do

Four things to do in Tonglu

Treks and walks · 2 hoursWalk Hooker's rhododendron slopesTonglu · Included in your guide fee

Viewpoints · 1 hourSunset over Nepal from TongluTonglu · Free

Treks and walks · 2.5–4 hoursThe forest trail between Tonglu and DhotreyTonglu · Included in your guide fee

Wildlife and birds · 2 hoursMorning birding on Tonglu's high pasturesTonglu · Included in your guide fee

On the map

Tonglu and its neighbours

Drawn by Darjeeling Himalayas from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Trips that stop here

Go to Tonglu on a ticket

Value Singalila7 nights · On foot Sandakphu and Phalut from Dhotrey Dhotrey · Tonglu · Kalipokhri · Sandakphu ₹25,500per person
about ₹3,200 a day

Shoestring Singalila2 nights · On foot Dhotrey and Tonglu on a shoestring Dhotrey · Tonglu ₹7,000per person
about ₹2,350 a day

Value Singalila4 nights · On foot Red panda forest: Dhotrey to Kalipokhri Dhotrey · Tonglu · Gairibas · Kalipokhri ₹16,500per person
about ₹3,300 a day

Value Singalila6 nights · On foot Rhododendron spring on the Singalila Ridge Chitrey · Tonglu · Kalipokhri · Sandakphu ₹20,500per person
about ₹2,950 a day

Close by

Nearby places

trek stop2,970 m Tumling A Nepali hamlet with the first big Kanchenjunga dawn

forest village2,500 m Dhotrey A forest village and the short way up to Tonglu

trek stop2,500 m Chitrey A gompa and white chorten at the top of the first climb

forest village2,621 m Gairibas A forest hollow on the ridge where red pandas live

Routes

Dhotrey to Tonglu

Ways to travel

Treks and walks Kanchenjunga views Wildlife and birds Photography Long weekends

Questions people ask

Questions about Tonglu

Is Tonglu in India?

Yes. Tonglu is on the Indian side of the Singalila Ridge in Darjeeling district, inside Singalila National Park. Tumling, about 1 km away, is in Nepal. The border runs just west of the summit.

What is the altitude of Tonglu?

About 3,070 m. It is the first summit above 3,000 m on the Sandakphu trek. Some trekkers feel mild altitude effects here; drink water and climb steadily.

Can I stay at Tonglu?

There is a GTA trekkers' hut on the summit with basic dorm beds. Its condition and booking method vary, so confirm in Darjeeling or Maneybhanjan before relying on it. Otherwise, sleep at Tumling nearby.

How do I get to Tonglu?

Walk from Maneybhanjan via Chitrey and Meghma (about 11 km), walk up from Dhotrey through the forest (about 6 km), or ride a Land Rover on the Sandakphu track for about 1.5 hours. All routes need a licensed guide.

Is Tonglu good for a short trek?

Yes. A two-night loop from Darjeeling, up from Dhotrey to Tonglu, a night at Tumling or Tonglu, and down to Maneybhanjan via Chitrey, gives forest, views and a Kanchenjunga sunrise without the full trek.

Can I see Kanchenjunga from Tonglu?

Yes, clearly on autumn mornings, along with the Darjeeling ridge to the east. On the clearest days Everest and Makalu also show to the west. Sunrise and sunset are both good.

Is there food at Tonglu?

The trekkers' hut caretaker can cook simple meals if told in advance, and Tumling's lodges are 20–40 minutes away. Carry snacks. Do not rely on finding food on the summit outside the main season.

Is Tonglu snowbound in winter?

It can be after snowfalls in January and February, when the summit and track may be white for days. The view is superb, but walking and Land Rover travel are slower. Ask at Maneybhanjan before setting out.

Are there red pandas near Tonglu?

Red pandas live in the bamboo and fir forests of Singalila National Park, including the slopes around Tonglu and Dhotrey. Sightings are rare. Your best chance is a quiet early-morning walk with a guide who knows the forest.