The local story
A power station in a border valley
The Jaldhaka is born far to the north, in the lake country of East Sikkim around Kupup, and runs through the border hills of Bhutan before it reaches Jhalong. For most of its course here it is the line between India and Bhutan: on one bank Kalimpong district, on the other Bhutanese forest. Until the Treaty of Sinchula in 1865, both banks were Bhutan's.
Jhalong as a settlement owes its shape to electricity. From the 1960s, West Bengal's state electricity board built the Jaldhaka Hydel Project here, with a diversion barrage upstream at Bindu sending water through a channel and tunnel to a power station at Jhalong. Staff quarters, offices, a school and shops grew up around it, and the place still has the tidy, slightly old-fashioned feel of a project colony.
Around that colony live Nepali-speaking families who farm cardamom, ginger and vegetables on the slopes and run small shops and homestays. Tourism came late and stayed small, which is why Jhalong remains one of the cheapest and calmest stops in the region.

